My Sepik River Trip

I had heard a few weeks ago that the boat called Kalibobo Spirit was going to cruise up to the Sepik River over Easter. As I wasn't looking forward to the Easter holiday on my own I booked a place! It was touch and go whether it would happen as I was passenger 7 and they needed 8and then someone dropped out. However, they managed to get 10 people which was a good number.

We went on board at 12 noon on Thursday. After being shown our cabins we set sail eating a sandwich lunch. There was another woman, Megan on her own but travelling with friends, Nick and Heather,who I knew. Then there was Norm and Gail who live in Kokopo, Alison and Bill, he still lives in Madang after 26 years but she has gone to Cairns to be with her children and finally a Malaysian couple who have lived 40 years in Tasmania. So apart from Heather, Canadian by birth all were Australians.

The boat is owned and captained by Sir Peter with a crew of 8. Helicopter on top and launch boat on the back! All beautifully furnished!!

First point of call was Karkar which if you read the BLOG I have been to twice before the last time to climb the volcano. But we anchored at a different place so it was new. We visited a Hospital run by a German couple. He is a surgeon and she a Doctor. They are there for 3 years with their 3 children. As you can see from the photos it is very poorly equipped. Very sobering experience.

So back t the ship and we set sail to go through the night. Very noisy and sleep didn't come easily! But by 6am we were in the mouth of the river. Very wide but still haven't found out how wide but I reckon about half a mile in most parts. It is brown and fast flowing with loads of debris floating around and the biggest problem, water hyacinths. And it was pouring down!!

We got into the launch wearing plastic ponchos which were much needed I can assure you! On the shore we picked up a local man who was going to show us a short cut through the mango swamps, to a lake. The river was extremely narrow and you had to be careful of all the overhanging branches!!!! We came to two trees almost meeting each other overhead and we scrapped through knocking off one light and much scrapping of the sides!! It got narrower and then the skipper called it a day1 Now we had to go back!! We went backwards for a while and he then did the most amazing three point turn!!!! We dropped off our guide and headed along the river. By this time it was torrential rain and it whipped across your face like ice. Ponchos were flapping and heads were down!!! I had chosen the back of the boat, wise choice as it happened as those in front sheltered me!!!!

We stopped at a village to look round. Everyone was fascinated watching us1 All these white skins wearing yellow or blue plastic bags!!!! Out came the artifacts and carvings, none of which appeal to me but I did see a long "dish" which I bought and a long knive shaped wooden utensil to use for making sago, just to remind me how horrible it is to eat!

Back in the boat and at speed up the river! The engine was 250 hp! Missing the debris is an art formbelieve you me and only twice did we get in a tangle. At the next village stop we found that the village was under water. It is the rainy season and the water comes down from the mountains bringing with it the debris and moving floating clumps of water hyacinths. But the people were fishing or the kids were using nets around bamboo frames almost circular. Families were preparing sago which is from the inside of a tree trunk, just stringy orangey fibres which the men cut out with axes and the women have a long leaf on a support which is tilted and they scoop up water from the river, yes the brown water from the river and pour it over the sago constantly bashing it. I am told the darker the water the better the sago!!!!

So we sailed on marveling how resilient people are living in such conditions. Third village still under water but they manage to get us in a shallow slip way. Then a discussion as to whether we wanted to walk to the market which was under 2 feet of water! By this time we were all desperate for the loo so Heather asked a lady where we could go! She took us to a lilik haus but apologized as the new hole had been dug but the haus hadn't been moved over it yet. When heather came out, she was first she said "don't look down"!! I was next. You couldn't avoid it but the box lying on the floor I used to drop in to cover the thousand of maggots below and not far below either! I knew two of the women would freak out!!! Oh the joys of being a woman in the bush!!!

Then came our excitement of the day. The helicopter arrived and landed in front of us. Why? Sir Peter had brought us hot meat pies!!! Honest. The Aussies were thrilled but pies aren't my thing as Ken will be smiling as he reads this! And those who have been to Australia or New Zealand will appreciate. Kids they were Georgie pies, remember in NZ? Ketchup was handed around which I declined. Good job as it was chocolate sauce in a ketchup bottle!!!!!

It was then decided that the market would come to us! Not much to see but a few bits bought. And off up the river again. I have to say it is quite boring to be honest. Wide river, floating debris!!! Anyway the next village really did bring their wares to us in dug out canoes which are hollowed out tree trunks. Old ladies jossling to get in first and the boat covered in displays.

The rain had hardly seized all day and when Sibona [as Sir Peter had told us it means one like Una does!!!] our guide asked us if we wanted to go down another tributary as Sir Peter had suggested we voted unanimously NO! He was sitting next to me and explained he'd had to ask as Sir Peter would ask why we were home so early!!!! So very wet and very bedraggled we got back to this beautiful white ship dripping everywhere!!!

Dinner that night was special! Tabled decorated for Easter even though only Good Friday we had Easter eggs! Beautiful adaption of hymns in the background and on the menu was printed some pictures of our day!

We stayed moored near the mouth of the river, I can now see why the ship doesn't go further up stream!!! And I slept very well! We set sail at 3 am to start the homeward journey via Manam again where I have been before. This is the volcanic island that last erupted in 2004 and all the people were taken to the mainland where they are still living.

We didn't land where I had previously so the others didn't get the chance to walk across the lava flow [maybe too dirty!!!!] So we were met by a few islanders who have returned and given a tour. I got talking to one man about polygamy which they practice. The chief has two wives, his brother has 11 and the younger one 13. This is why there is a problem on the mainland. When they were resettled it was on Government land. With polygamy rife they have outgrown their gardens and are encroaching on the land belonging to the mainlanders who are angry. So fighting has broken out with hoses being burnt down etc. I should be going there tomorrow so I need to check out the situation first. Two little girls attached themselves to me and we had a nice chat! They were Michelle and Lisa. Back on board and we set sail for home.

We stopped again on Karkar which we hadn't been expecting again on a different bit but I opted not to go ashore and stayed on board so I could text ken as it was texting time of day and in the Sepik there had been no coverage. The rest went ashore expecting to go for a swim but found that they were visiting a RC Church and compound and didn't have time for a swim! Thank goodness I hadn't gone!!!

Off we sailed and moored very late in a bay on Bagabag Island. Woke up to a beautiful view! Easter Sunday morning with Hot Cross buns as part of our breakfast! Before we went ashore to swim Sir Peter said that if anyone was interested he'd take them for a 2 minute trip in the helicopter! My hand shot up! We then were taken to shore on the launch which by the way is rather civilized with a dropdown ladder to walk on to dry ground!!! Megan, Alison and I were first on. Sibona whispered tome never sit in the back so I was put in the front!Cream letter armchairs, headphones, plush!! Off we went. A complete tour of the island for 10 minutes. The coral was bright and the villages looked so pretty and so well laid out with lawns etc. Then the others had a turn. The next thing was Sibona putting 5 little boys in for a ride!!! They were terrified but all smiles when back on land. That was such a nice gesture. In the meantime we had a swim. Usually women need to cover up especially the waist to knees and also a Tshirt but we got in just wearing bikins and swimsuits and no one was bothered. I then asked a young lad if I could go in his canoe and he said yes. So pulled dress on and off we went out into the bay!! I was good!!! And I didn't disgrace myself either!! Back to the ship and kids round the boat catching Easter eggs from Sir Peter!

Four hours sailing and we came into Madang. A wonderful trip.

As I am writing this I suddenly realized that I am still moving as if I was on board!!! Yet on board and last night nothing but all morning still am riding those waves! Odd.