Bits and pieces from Kathmandu 1 October 2009

It's 7am and I'm sitting in bed working off line to write some thoughts. As I write there are two young ladies sitting in the field below our bedroom window watching me as they look after two cows! One has just finished brushing the others long hair both are still wearing their glittery finery, possibly their only outfits and new for Dasai which is the festival that is nearly finished, it lasts for 9 days. It does make one think, "Why am I sitting in relative luxury whilst they, on the surface, appear to have so little?"

It makes me think that some of the things we have taken for granted might be of interest so here I am with some of my bits and pieces!

• When we lived here 30 years ago cows roamed the streets and in fact the only advice we were ever given was, "If you hit one drive straight to the airport and go!"Now the cows seem in the main to be off the road. Also the stray dogs that used to follow you about are all gone and the only dogs I've seen so far have been on leads! We heard yesterday that one of my ex students has set up a dog centre where they take stray dogs off the street, give them anti rabies injections and "neuter" [wrong word I know!!] them and put them back where they were from. This has cut down the number of stray dogs and made the local people less afraid of them.
• When we were walking around the centre of Kathmandu the other day we suddenly realised that "the smell" had gone! Believe you me it used to be strong and those who have been here will remember that and the rubbish which again has mainly gone.
• One of the biggest changes is in the women's dress. No longer do they all wear saris except for really special occasions but they now wear what I'd say was similar to that worn in Pakistan and Bangladesh. Trousers, bit like harem [sp?] pants and a long top to the knees that is cut straight with slits either side to the thigh. I'm hoping to buy as it looks so comfy and would be ideal wear for PNG.

Last night we attended the final big reception for the wedding. It was in a restaurant in the centre of Kathmandu and I reckon that you'd not know it existed unless in the know and I now know it is an old Rana palace.. It was all in the gardens which was lit by fairy lights. It was stunning but it would be interesting to see in day light!! Maybe we'll return for lunch! All the women were in very glittery saris! We met Shyam Badan's good womenfriends, very strong characters and some a blast from the past! If we still lived here I reckon they are the type of woman I'd enjoy knowing. One did remember me and reminded me I'd helped her get a toilet erected!! I don't remember at all.

• Everywhere you go there are huge bamboo structures which are swings, a few I have taken a photo off. These are erected as part of Dasai when everyone has a swing because they must have their feet off the ground.
• Another festival tradition is to go to all family homes to receive a blessing. This is in the form of a tika, rice mixed in "I think a yoghurt mixture" and with the red tika powder so everyone has this on their foreheads.
• This is the time of year that the children fly kites. They also receive gifts or money just like our Christmas
• The shops are still the same but now there are departmental stores!!! And when we were here years ago there were very few shops on the road up to Budhanilkantha whereas they are right along both sides.
• Transport is by mini buses, very similar to PNG. They stop and pack loads into them, people standing, squashed in three to a seat designed for two!! It costs about 20pence for a 10 minute ride.
• The ring road is now a constant traffic jam whereas when I used to drive on it to Lincoln School it was empty!! Just me on the road.
• Tibetan ladies still wear their traditional dress with the apron, in the front if you are married and at the back if you're single.
• Married women are the only ones to wear a red necklace and on receiving during the marriage ceremony is the sign that they are married.

That's it for now!!