¡Buenas! Day 35- 18k, hot sunny day. We spent the day getting out of the bowl of flat land ( about 50k across) in which Ponferrada (and the Templar Castle) is the main centre. It was tough walking over a secondary, back country goat track (see pic of Sal in action) up hill and down dale. fantastic views though especially back the way we had come - high hills with snow and central lowland that could grow just about anything. So we ground out the kms, got lost in a chestnut forest, followed the GPS and there it was - the yellow arrows , we were back on track! Down a steep hill that went on forever and eventually we made it to Trabadelo and the Albergue Camino y Leyenda - nice cool old manor house and we treated ourselves to a 2 person room! Only the 2nd time on the Camino we've splashed out this big !! Tomorrow is the last big climb up to O'Cebreiro and then then final run down to Santiago - a mere 150k!! Hasta mañana.