Cizur Menor to Puente la Reina with a side trip to Eunate. 23k, biggest day so far. The day began with a sustained climb over The Alto de Perdón - wind, rain exposed and all The wet Weather gear on. Spent The time talking Spanish with a guy from Madrid - his name "Santiago" - so felt like I was walking with The Saint himself! On the downhill side, steep, muddy, then lots of boulders ( a water course really) talked to a couple of Spanish. Señoritas - kindergarten teachers. People tend to tell you all their secrets on The Camino - maybe it is because I have kind eyes like a cow (like my Mum)!! Have to admit it is a bit hard for me to keep up with in Spanish. I probably miss all The good bits !! The little villages are starting to click by with The miles, a blur after a while. Gem of The day was the church At Eunate - La Iglesia de Santa María - built by The Templars back in 12th century - (see pic). This church stood alone out in The countryside literally in splendid isolation. Octagonal, small, devoid of decoration, inspired a huge sense of awe, respect, reverence even, Much more so for me than The overdecorated catedrales in The cities. The Templars were clearly minimalists and The refugio and hospital next to The church was real evidence of them delivering on their mission to look after peregrinos like me. I felt a great sense of sadness they were not still around. Then back on the trail for the last 5k to Puente la Reina and The Refugio de Reparadores por la noche. Hasta mañana.