¡Buenos! Day 12, Nájera to Grañon =28k walked, longest day so far! Gem of the day - a 2hr conversation in Spanish with my new companero de Camino, Ivan from near Madrid ( see pic) 1st time I've lasted this long talking Spanish - my brain usually gets burned out after about 15mins. We talked about politics, money, marriage, the church, who brings up the kids and pretty much solved all the world's problems - all the while we ate up the kms. I always feel like I'm in a high risk sport when I get into these Spanish conversations - where I realise I'm way out in deep conversational water and pretty easy to sink in overwhelming lack of understanding. Today was OK - only sank occasionally - and I could tell Ivan was enjoying the companionship and my Spanish turned out to be better than his English - a 1st for sure. The terrain is getting less hilly and we had a big long distance view of the meseta way ahead today - miles and miles of dead flat nada. Tonight we are staying an old church - true peregrino style, about 30 people will sleep on mats on the floor, have a peregrino meal cooked in house, church service. The full noise. The hospitality is truely impressive - leaves you feeling very humble. Hasta mañana.