Determined to try and avoid the worst of the heat I set the alarm for 6. Roger really pulls a face especially as the bright light shining outside the room turns out to be the moon. It's light here until nearly 11 at night but darker in the morning. So we set off with the dawn at 6.45 and I even need my fleece to start off which I haven't worn in days. Roger doesn't manage to speak until we have had breakfast about an hour later and then we begin what is billed as the steepest and longest climb of the Camino. The views as we went up to what is the mountain border between Castille and Leon and Gallica were fantastic and in the sunshine the visibility was amazing. We could look back to the last mountain range that we crossed about a week before. And it was surprisingly manageable with the result that we reach O Cebreiro , the town at the top of the mountain where we were staying by just after 11, with Roger wearing his I told you we didn't need to set off so early face. However, the village is another tourist spot with pilgrims outnumbered hugely by coach trippers. Hundreds of Japanese visitors buying the fridge magnets as well as us. In fact the town doesn't treat pilgrims well. Expensive and v basic hotel with uncomfortable bed and nylon sheets ! Not a smile from hotel owners, a ghastly meal with wine that even Roger struggled to finish. But in the afternoon we heard the American cellist who is travelling the Camino play again in the beautiful little church. My first real cry of the walk as it felt very emotional and then we sat and enjoyed the beautiful views and talked about what the experience has meant to us both. So we are now in Gallicia which promises a different experience and the food just has to improve after today.