Buffs are a great thing.... You can wear them as ear warmers(which i did in the wind today)...you can wear them as a sweat band..... You can wear them as a neck warmer.... You can wear them as a hat to protect your head from the sun....and if your feeling feisty you can pretend to be a pirate!! Arrrrrrgh Matey!!!..... Well I left mom sitting at the albergue with 5 back packs... She was the keeper of the packs taking them in the taxi.....I figured I could do the 12 km by lunch so told her not to worry and off I went.... I took moms poncho with me as it has been raining off and on all night.... Sure enough as soon as I walked out of town it started to pour!!! It was very peaceful walking alone in the rain..... No one to talk to but myself.... And sing of course!!!! I walked through a few villages to a place called Herrerias, it had been pouring rain and I was starting to feel a bit miserable, I was hiding in a door stoop just to get of the rain when a little old lady appeared with two pouncing puppies... There were lots of smiles and puppy cuddles to brighten my mood.... And off I went to start the big climb up!! And up it was!! I felt like I was climbing forever... There were cows in the fields with bells and it kinda gave me the feeling they were cheering me on from the stands....I headed off the road onto a very steep rocky muddy path....I was dodging cow patties and the biggest slugs I have ever seen!! I finally made it to La Faba and was so happy to see a bar and drink some cafe con leche!!! And sit down for a bit..... Had a snack and off I went....this time steeper rocky muddy slippery path.... It was kinda mystical though....walking in the mist... Not really knowing where the next turn was or when the hill would give a little....or being able to see the valley.... Was just like I was in a world of my own....I made it to the next village of Laguna da Castilla and guess what??? Yup.... Cafe con leche time again...I am not in a hurry may as well enjoy it! I had 2.5 kms left which were not as steep but still up! My shoes and socks were soaked.... But still felt ok.... Smartwool socks were my friend today!! I arrived in O'Cebreiro and in the mist I could see these thatch roofed pallozas.... very cool and kinda surreal! I found mom sitting in the bar we had picked to meet.... she had been in the church all morning hanging with the monks, praying to the statue of St Anthony(hopefully she didn't think I was lost!!) and lighting candles....we went up to the church because she was excited to show me real live monks!!! We spent some time there and then headed to the albergue and because we were the first I was able to have a hot shower, hand wash some clothes and throw them in the dryer.... Nice....the fog has lifted a bit and I am laying in my bed with my 26 soggy roommates looking out my window at the beautiful valley below!! We even got disposable sheets and pillow cases here.....I have snacks on hand so I don't get ornery waiting for supper at 7pm!!! Poor momma has had to experience the cranky impatient hungry Marty one to many times!! We actually found a restaurant that serves supper early so no cranky Marty and mom gets to go to mass.... Everywhere we have been serves the pilgrims supper at 7 and the pilgrims mass is at 7.... So guess how many pilgrims go to mass!! Well that's all for today!