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Back on track now with my energy levels slowly coming back, the sun is out and La Paz is beckoning me. I had breakfast with Nyrzah before making my way to downtown La Paz - the traffic was mental and the journey took ages but on a positive note the driver was very friendly and chatted the whole way. The first thing I needed to do was go to the famous tourist street and get some information and prices on tours. There were literally hundreds of agencies offering all the same kind of tours; from ice climbing to Inka trail treks to death road bike riding tours to jungle tours. After I had seen enough tour agencies I headed up to the famous electronic street to see if I could find a camera - this proved a bigger challenge then I had anticipated - 100s of small stores offering old model black market cameras. I found the camera I liked and decided I would bring my Bolivian friend back to see if she could get me a better price. At 1pm I met Najwa my new couchsurfing friend and we went exploring. Najwa is a self-employed architect and a world traveller having being born in Chile, living in Bolivia and having lived in Italy for a year. We hit it off straight away and shared many stories, plans and experiences. We headed to the famous witches market and Najwa showed me some of the typical potions and bits and pieces Bolivian people use to ward of bad spirits, create luck and good fortune and create spells with. The most interesting thing I saw was the llama foetuses - which are buried under the foundations of a new home as a kind of blessing and good fortune thing. I was also told the bigger the house or the building the bigger the offering - from sacrificed llamas to actual people being buried under the buildings (you be your own judge - if you believe that). Next stop was the electronic market to see if we could get the price down on the camera, Najwa managed to get a little more off the price which I was happy with so maybe next week I will return and buy. There were little old ladies cutting up and selling pineapples and wow incredibly sweet and juicy and about a third of a pineapple chopped and ready to eat for 30 cents. We wondered around more and I was able to have my own personal guide telling me what was what. I had seen this drink that I really wanted to try called: Mocochichi which consisted of a sun dried peach (imagine a quarter the size of a peach) and dried to the point of being rock hard. This rock hard peach is then boiled in water along with cinnamon sticks and clove and a bunch of sugar - the result a deliciously refreshing drink served at all hours of the day. We tried the drink and it was delicious a bit too sweet for me oh and the best part is Ofcourse the peach which swells back up to its original size and is endowed with the flavors of the cinnamon and clava. I was so impressed by this tasty refreshment I decided I would need to recreate myself with out the ton of sugar, in the market I was able to buy the spices along with the dried peaches and I also found dried raisins and sultanas that are used to make a similar drink. Armed with an array of strange dried fruit and spices I am ready to try making typical Bolivian refreshments. Najwa then got a phone call from her family inviting us around to her Aunties house for lunch - I had already eaten but how could I turn down an offer like this. Luckily her Auntys house was in the city and just a short walk away, arriving her Aunty gave me a big hug and a kiss welcoming to her home. First up was a delicious vegetable soup made with about 8 vegetables; cream, filling and a little spicy. My Spanish has got worse and it was quite hilarious trying to communicate with the Aunty but we had a good laugh. Najwas Mother then came around and joined us and she was also a very funny lady that made me feel very welcome. Next plate was roast beef and vegetables in a light and slightly sweet gravy - the meat was so tender (something rare in Bolivia), although I was full I managed to finish it and be in complete content. The lunch lasted nearlly two hours and we finished off with some tri-mate tea (famous Bolivian tea) made of chamomile, anis and coca. After a great meal and great company I thanked the chef, organized to go hiking with Najwas Mum next weekend and planned a traditional cook-up with Najwa. From here I went for one last look along the witches market before jumping on a bus back to my hosts house. Another Couchsurfer who had previously stayed with Nyrzha was coming back to stay a few nights so I waited for her arrival whilst Nyrzha went back to work. Whilst waiting I decided to make the traditional Mocochichi drink I had sampled earlier. First up I boiled the hot water and let the dried peaches and raisins soak for one hour, I then chucked in the cinnamon sticks, clava, lemon zest, and a little brown sugar and let boil for the next hour; it is best served chilled so I let sit overnight for breakfast refreshments. The Couchsurfer arrived and her name was Pei; an Australian born Chinese girl that grew up in Perth and surprise surprise also a Doctor. Pei is a mad climber; rocks, ice, everything and for the last year has been travelling the world climbing mountains. It was really interesting talking to her and she convinced me to do the tour to nearby mountain Huayana Potosi which is at 6000m. When Nryzha arrived we had to go around to her parents house to make the desserts for tomorrow's baby shower. Meeting Nyrzha's Mother and Father was a real treat and instead of helping cook I spent my time sharing my travels and learning about all the wonderful Bolivian cuisine. The Father spoke very good english as his profession as an engineer had taken him all over the world. By the end of the night I had a sore belly from laughing so much and a big smile ear to ear; having been invited to try the best peanut soup in Bolivia (courtesy of Nyrzha's Mum) and another cooking lesson; helping Nyrzha's Mum cook their traditional lamb roast on Monday night. Days really don't get much better then today and to share meals, conversations and time with new friends, families in foreign lands is why I travel.
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