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28 -29/5 Saturday and Sunday Finisterre 7km
Saturday the sun was shining and I had precious time to relax. Being at Albergue Do Sol helps as it's the most laid-back place I've stayed.
I had a wander round town, found the tourist office and got my Finisterre Certificate and then had coffee in a quirky bar - A Galeria.
A little later I headed for a small, sheltered beach just at the south end of town where I swam and relaxed before heading to the harbour to eat. A restaurant/ bar (Mesón Arco da Vella) I'd had a drink in the previous day spoke to me and provided a delicious meal of salad with fresh cheese and steamed mussels.
Back at the Albergue I got my picnic ready for my planned evening walk to the lighthouse. Fittingly, I decided to take a quiet coastal path rather than the main Camino trail. Giovanni, who works at the Albergue, also suggested dropping down to Punta do Oídos on the way. It turned out to be a spectacular place to snack and relax and I was glad of only a light wind as the viewpoint was quite craggy and could have felt risky in a gale!
Then it was on and up towards the lighthouse, the zero Km mark and the end of my long walk! The place was a bit of a circus with lots of pilgrims, sightseers, amplified guitar music, hotel, restaurant and a bar! And I didn't care! Just elated to be there at last! A really life affirming moment.
I was there well before sunset so wandered around to a quiet spot away from the crowd but then found I had no phone signal and I wanted to share the experience with Jill so I moved to a rock close to the bar where I was back online.
I have to admit I took advantage of the bar with a large caña con limón and then it was sunset time which was lovely to be sharing albeit virtually with Jill.
As darkness fell I headed down the road immediately seeing a Scottie dog looking like the one from the Albergue but assuming it must belong to a nearby camper van, that is until Antarus sniffed me and followed along down the path mercifully with a barrier between me and the road.
Half way down I looked back at the disappearing lighthouse and commented to a woman that there was potential for a photo. This turned out to be Sabine, from Hamburg, who soon engaged in quite a deep conversation with me reflecting on our respective caminos. Soon we were back in town so headed off in different directions.
On reflection meeting Sabine was a typical Camino experience and part of what makes it special. You meet a stranger by chance and quickly feel there is a person worth getting to know or not. I wonder if speed dating works like this?
Earplugs were necessary I assume due to Italians sounding their horns and letting off fireworks to celebrate Milan beating Liverpool in the Champions' League final and the fact I was first to bed so there would be half a dozen disturbances coming at some point!
Sunday confirmed what I was thinking about Camino relationships. Firstly, I met Sabine at the taxi stand as I was passing and we both affirmed we'd enjoyed our previous brief dialogue.
Then in the quirky A Galeria bar I met Rick from Calgary, found we had teaching in common and had a long chat. He was kind enough to give me his Camino Portugués guide as he no longer needed it. A typical piece of Camino generosity. And I guess when two people are sitting alone it's very easy to make eye contact and say something, anything that leads to a conversation or not! I'm sure it's also the knowledge of shared experience that helps to make initial conversation easy.
My final example of Camino friendship was the arrival of Lale in Finisterre. I last saw her way back in Santander but as with most Camino friends we'd kept in occasional contact via WhatsApp.
I'd recommended my Albergue to her as I knew she'd like the relaxed vibe and the fact that there were two or three guitar players there.
We had a wander down to the harbour and the sea, headed along to the beach, where I had a final swim, then back for coffee in a bar with live guitar and fiddle.
When I was packed, showered and loaded up I was happy to see and hear Lale already singing along with one of the guitar players.
We said goodbye and I headed off for the Menu Del Día at Rombos where the fish of the day was fantastic again. Then it was onto the bus and the three-hour ride to Santiago. Followed by a stiff up hill walk from the bus station to my Albergue and bed!
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