11/5 Wednesday O Cádavo Baliera to Vilar de Cas 15km
Today, as is the norm, I’m on of the last to leave O Cádavo. The way climbs steadily upwards and into forests. Soon, at Alto de Vacariza there is a choice as the guidebook explains. The Galacian authorities have added alternative routes to the Camino and this is the first I’ve come across.
Confusingly the complementary route is actually the original and looks a little more interesting and is a little further now than the official route.
I haven’t seen another pilgrim since setting out this morning. Perhaps they take the slightly shorter route. I stop at Capela Do Carme for a quick snack at the recreation area. Here the picnic tables and benches are blocks of granite and the place looks more like an abandoned grave yard than a picnic area.
Next the path starts to drop gradually down to Iglesia de Santa Maria de Vilabade and rejoins the other route, then on into the small town of Castroverde where I stop for refreshments and chat with Robyn and Annette. This is the last place with a shop before tomorrow’s destination of Lugo so I buy bread, ham and fruit as supplies.
As I leave there is a lovely fountain next to the church. Then it’s back into woodland paths where I find a babbling brook which I prefer to babbling pilgrims as a peaceful lunch stop.
A little further on I pass Wendy chatting to a group of French pilgrims who also found a quiet picnic spot. It seems we are all staying at the Villar de Cas Albergue, at Pociña de Muñiz which I arrive at around 2pm.
It looks fabulous, very modern accommodation but a rustic barn with a bar and meals. There is also a garden with loungers and hammocks! Of course Heike is already enjoying a glass of wine so time for a chill with a caña con limón as the others arrive.
I sort out my bed but skip showering, opting to catch some afternoon sun and then some hammock time in the shade. The atmosphere here is idyllic with the four French women already singing and playing guitar in the garden.