27/4 Wednesday San Esteban to La Isla 12km
Last night I ate with Philipe and Bettina. Philipe was good company. They are both cycling the Camino. Both from Austria but they only met at Irun. Philipe must’ve been quite an athlete. He competed in the modern pentathlon in the Montréal Olympics!
Jolie was a wonderful hostess. She was always cheerful and keen to refill our glasses, first with cidra and then with an almond liqueur. Needless to say I think we all slept well!
This morning, leaving the Albergue was very pastoral with cows in the fields. The first village, Vega, was quite pretty with traditional farm buildings and one house with murals painted on the walls.
Then, it was downhill to Playa De Vega but only briefly before climbing gently back into the countryside. On the path here I meet a Spanish guy who was looking to buy land and plant a vineyard. He already had a vineyard near Madrid but wanted a house in a vineyard near Bilbao. He recommended Godello, white wine, and wished me luck for the journey as did a group of Spanish people who look like they were about to go into caves with their helmets and wetsuits.
Next was a short stretch along the road then up over and down the hill back to the coast and Playa Arenal de Morís. Snacked on empeñada here and chatted to a Belgian pilgrim and a Brit called Dean. I’d seen on a tourist notice board there was a small path following the cliff tops whilst the Camino ran parallel on a lane 2-300m inland.
Just as I set off along the cliff tops a walking group were being guided parallel to me on the Camino. What a shame when they were so close to a far better outlook- not much of a guide as my path was easy to follow and not difficult.
Then, at Los Romeros, the beach towards La Isla comes into view. Time for lunch at a picnic table where I sample my local artisan cheese collection bought yesterday. I even quite enjoyed the green-veined one. Something about the terroir?
After lunch it was shoes off and paddle the beach. I couldn’t go the whole way due to a rocky outcrop and the rising tide so shoes on and back to the road. Then a little Google navigation to find the Albergue La Isla which was a few minutes off the Camino.
Imagine my surprise when I arrived to be met by Franco! He had a painful Achilles and calf and was taking a rest day. He knew I was arriving here as I’d messaged him last night. He’s already bought beers and the ingredients for a pasta meal he plans to cook for us tonight. Such a lovely guy!