18/4 Monday Güemes to Santander 18km
Last night's talk by Pastor Ernesto was interesting- he firmly believes that the Camino is the walk of life, for many from dark times to a brighter future. He rejected religious perspectives as he said the church does too little to challenge oppression. The process of looking, walking and sharing was enough to lead to a more enlightened life.

Breakfast was dry and disappointing after a delicious communal meal last night. The weather was dull as peregrinos drifted out on to the road mostly alone. I decided I'd stop for coffee in the first village 3-4 km ahead.

As I walked I felt the need for music so I listened to random tracks in my phone but as I arrived in the village of Galizano I saw Ramon playing a guitar at Bar Ostav. He's clearly a child of the 70s as he played some Neil Young. I certainly got music now.

Gradually Kristina, Izzie, Lale all drifted along. Lale was soon singing along. The bar owner was delighted and brought us free food. Ramon suggested all that was missing was wine. I sorted then even though it was before 11am!

Lale and Ramon improvised and I even contributed an ironic, "Nobody loves me, everybody hates me, think I'll go and eat worms" which Ramon somehow wrapped a tune around. This then featured in another of Lale's improvisations.

Eventually, Izzie headed off. I said I wasn't moving until Ramon had had enough of playing. Anyway, the four of us eventually made a move and walked together. Each chatting with each in turn.

We reached the coast quickly and dropped down to the long beach leading to Somo, on the Miera Estuary, across from Santander. Lale was hungry so we decided to picnic before walking the beach. None of us had shopped so we all fished out leftovers and snacks from our packs and this gave us more than enough even if the bread was past its best.

Then we were off along the beach to Somo and the ferry. On the far side we had another coffee and sorted out accommodation and onward plans. I'd booked ahead in a hostel, Ramon and Lale found a place and Kristina went off sightseeing as she was ending her Camino and getting a bus back to Bilbao that night. We agreed to meet up later, at the cathedral, find pinchos and see Kristina off. That done Ramon headed off with some new peregrino friends, Lale went in search of tomorrow's provisions and I headed back to my hostel.