One full day on Hvar island. It was a cool morning but the forecast said the sun was going to shine later and to celebrate, Calvin wore shorts and thongs today. For a warm up, it was a walk up the hill (involving a lot of steps!) to the Hvar Fortress where we could see over the town of Hvar and out to the Adriatic Sea. A stop by the bakery in town on the way back to the house meant Kate got her morning tea of apple strudel and Calvin got to try burek! Burek is a typical Croatian snack involving filo pastry layered and stuffed with meat or cheese or spinach and rolled into a scroll. So good! We took the car for a drive on the much too narrow and winding roads of Hvar island - somewhat nerve-wracking as we would drive on what seemed like cliffs without any barriers! It was actually a really nice drive if you forget about falling off the edge of the road - olives groves everywhere, the blue Adriatic waters everywhere, dry stone walls hatching the hillsides. Kate was wearing Calvin's Adidas runners because her bunion was playing up in her own shoes. Following the tourist trail, we stopped off in Brusje. We had no idea what to do here and the town looked like it was deserted with stones buildings looking a little worse for wear and not a single soul in sight. So, without actually even getting out of the car, we just decided to head to the next most populated place on the trail - Stari Grad.  Stari Grad Town is quite quaint but is probably more attractive when things are actually open. A short stroll around the small harbour and past some beautiful old stoney laneways brought us to Tvrdalj Castle - an old but well maintained structure that is usually open to the public (in peak season). Since it was closed, we just looked around it. Deciding that walking around towns that were basically closed probably wasn't going to be the most interesting, we headed off in search of beaches! The chosen beach was in the village of Zavala. It was a perfect little stoney bay with clear blue waters (and no sea urchins!) and the sun was out! Calvin was keen on a swim, Kate wasn't so keen. So while Kate sat on a rock on the beach, Calvin stripped down to his budgie smugglers and stepped into the cool (a little bit of an understatement) waters of the Adriatic. Besides the cold temperatures, the water was great! Felt clean and refreshing but after a little lap to the buoy and back, Calvin was a little too cold to keep swimming. According to the tourist map, there was a cave nearby - Grapčeva Špilja which apparently is a great place to see lots of archaeological findings. We drove to the closest village Gromin Dolac on a dirt track and walked for about 30 minutes and ended up not finding it! It may have been quite far up the hill - according to the internet its more accessible from Humac and then we found out that it's only open in the summer. So we trekked back to the car - the path felt like it was a track in the Australian bush! Heading back into Hvar, we headed out to Riva Restaurant for an early dinner. It was the only restaurant in town that was open and they stop serving food by 6 pm! The food was great - Kate had fettuccine with tomato and mozzarella and Calvin had ravioli with truffle sauce - all washed down with some sparkling water. The waiter was extremely friendly and very keen to get a tip (which he actually really did deserve). A walk up the hill behind the apartment for sunset was a nice way to end the afternoon. At home, settled in bed about to go to sleep, we realised that we hadn't paid for accommodation yet and we had to pay in cash! As Kate's feet were saw, we opted for a drive to the ATM (so lazy of us) instead of the 1 km walk into town. Big mistake! The GPS took us down this laneway which was supposedly a street but was very residential and extremely narrow! Had to fold the side mirrors in to squeeze through part of it! Unfortunately we didn't even see an ATM and had to reverse (no way to turn around) about 500 m through tight passages round corners and navigate past stairs. Turns out walking would've been easier and less stressful! We eventually got the cash - Kate walked about 500 m to get there - and managed the drive home without any scratches!