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Driving over the spectacular White Mountains of Western Crete for the second time for us and first time for our friends did not disappoint. Climbing 3000ft from Chania leaving the hussle and bustle of the city climbing up and over the mountains is a spectacular journey. If younRenstaying in Chania you simply must hire a car and explore this beautiful prefecture. The winding roads, climbing high passing through orange orchards providing fabulous views of Crete looking back at the western north coast. Many stops were made as our friends wanted to get out of the jeep and take in the views and of course many photos.
We stopped over in a small village where a lovely old lady provided us with a cup of "Nescafé" , taking photos of the valley below from her garden.
We arrived in Sougia, journey around 4 hrs. Our friends excited at the next part of their first Greek Adventure together. The journey was as it had been the previous days, much fun and so many laughs. Russ was well and truly into his "Captian of the Jeep" speel making us laugh so much every time an "announcement" came. Temperature on top at 3000ft had dropped to 15 degrees with very black clouds looming over the Samaria Gorge mountain range. I wondered to myself if we would be walking the Gorge the next day....
We checked into Sante Irene, one bedroom apartment letting our friends have the bedroom we stayed in the twins in the living area. Clean and spacious for our 2 night stay. We unpacked what was needed for a bit of beach time that afternoon and the Gorge the next day.
We we headed to the beach and straight into the cold refreshing waters of Sougia.
Sougia is is a small 2/3 street village on the southern coast. One road in with a ferry from Agia Roumeli and further east Hora Skafion. It has around 10 tavernas serving delicious food. I would easily stay here again for a third time. The year before we stayed longer and walked to the ancient roman ruins of Lissos and to the caves long the coastal path. Plenty of options for walks basing yourself here.
So there we were on the beach cooled off, enjoying some rays and a cocktail excited about the next day's adventure, walking the Samaria Gorge. We had told our friends so much about it from our first experience the year before, a little apprehensive as it was something one had never done before and never walked the distance or all day. So Russ comes back sits next to me with a very glum face. "The gorge was closed yesterday, don't know if it will be open tomorrow", I was taken
by surprise and then laughed and said very funny. We had spent days joking about things that I thought it was a joke. I realised from his face it was not.Those black clouds we saw on the way had been there for 2 days and dropped a large amount of rain. The Gorge had been closed for 2 days allowing the Rangers to clear fallen rocks from the path. We were gutted to,say the least. We had only booked in for 2 nights and had little options, The lady at the bakery where you buy the bus tickets from said she would know at 8pm if it would open tomorrow.
Russ and I went through what our options were. Basically not a lot, if not tomorrow then, it would have to be the next day with a long drive toyour next stop,right after, in the dark to Matala. But the Gorge was a highlight of our friends holiday so if still closed we would try and stay another night in Sougia.
So we called our friends over and told them the disappointing news and talked through plan b,c and d! Absolutely gutted we talked and talked and then decided it was what it was and let's make the most of the rest of the day. So in our true style, we order cocktails, "Captain Russ" was back, made us smile and laugh and the mood lightened. Cards out and new game taught using pebbles as our scoring! Russ returned to bakery and news was as expected,,the gorge was closed tomorrow so plan B we give our friends option of beach day or with us to travel,up the mountains and down along the coast to Palaiochora which is a small town in Chania regional. It is located 77 km south of Chania, on the south coast. We had not been before so something new for us all.
They choose to come along with us and enjoying the journey, new scenery to us too we head for a fabulous ride investigating churches high in the mountains along the way and down to the town. We head to,the beach buying food for a picnic and chill. I not able to chill for long laying around I put my snorkel mask on and go investigate. A few rock formations and some fish on the left of the bay kept me satisfied.
Heading back to Sougia there is only one thing on our minds .....will be the Gorge be open tomorrow. A visit to the bakery brought fantastic news, yes. So we shall be able to walk the Samaria Gorge. We head back, pack as we have to check out well leave the key and put suitcases in the car early next day before catching the bus at 7am to the Gorge.
We are up at 0530 showers, breakfast, last minute packing, cases in car, bakery buying our picnic we pre ordered, bus tickets and queuing in the dark and cold, it is a misty wet morning. I am thinking to myself, we will arrive only to find they have decided to close it again. Russ was thinking the same. We watch the sun rise as the bus arrives, school kids eager, together with a large queue of gorge walkers. Sougia had become very busy as people had stopped extra nights until the gorge was reopened. We sit at the front and see nothing on the journey as the mist and then once 3000ft up we were in the clouds. On arrival we can see that the gorge is open, a relief for sure.
As we depart and start walking at 0850am it's drizzle but a glimpse of brighter weather can be seen. Excitement builds, we are going to walk this Goege today!
The walk is fantastic, has to be done! I don't think photos do,it justice. The first hour is descending steps and paths to,the gorge bed through fir trees. Next stage to the abandoned village of Samaria where the gorge opens up bringing in the sun. We rest here for second lunch, hydration drink and head for the last leg knowing that a cold sea waits for us with a gryros and ferry back. We enjoy as much as the first time, we enjoy as we are sharing the experience and see how much our friends are loving it too. What a walk just incredible. This time we witness a lot more rangers in the Gorge especially at areas where there are already signs telling you to,hurry through parts as risk of falling rocks.
Our friend at the end is over whelmed, a massive achievement for her. We head to the refreshing sea, Russ and I crying with laughter watching Mark trying to get his shorts and boots off without touching the hot pebbles. Russ and I are literally crying. He at lasts joins us and we all celebrate our achievement of walking the Samari Gorge.
Ferry back is around 30 mins, off the ferry and to our jeep at around 630 we are on the road to our last destination......... Matala...... And that is another story which has its own events! A scary, funny, interesting, near car crash journey of around 4 hrs. Well done to Captain Russ for getting us there after up so,early, walking 11.76 miles in 3.38 hours according to my App (we stopped at least that and more!)
I researched all,options of where to base yourself to walk the Gorge and definately think staying in Sougia is the best way.
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