We left Sougia around 1830, elated, tired and one of us overwhelmed and exhausted. The Gorge had been an experience we would all remember and gave us an appetite to walk it again in the future. Our planned drive to Matala which sits on the South Coast in the Central Prefecture was to be done in the daylight but as the Gorge had been closed for a day we were behind schedule so the drive was in the dark. As we climbed up the White Mountains the mist hit us again, then the clouds, the tops of the peaks could not be seen. Driving along hair pin bends became quite scary. As we rose towards the highest points visibility was virtually zero we could not see the road ahead beyond the car bonnet. We crawled along literally with Mark and I with windows down guiding Russ as to how near the edge of the road we were (which in most parts the tarmac ends and then a shear drop), Russ hung outside his window driving the jeep clinging to the central white line. Julie, well Julie bless was fast asleep and slept through the whole terrifying drive! Not sure how long it took and I only took one photo as we were very scared to say the least! At some point maybe after 45mins visibility became a little better with the edge of the bonnet in view and some of the road ahead. As we dropped down towards sea level we left the clouds and picked up speed from 1mph!! This we could have done without, especially Russ would was tired from a very long day which started at 0530 to walk the Gorge. As soon as we reached a garage we filled up and could see a coffee shop in the garage so Russ and I went in to get us all coffee. Well not Jules as she was still fast asleep on Mark’s lap! Buying a coffee for us all to take out took around 20 minutes, one think I just love about Greek people talking to us and giving us grapes whilst we waiting for a kettle to boil and to find some takeaway containers.

Armed with very strong coffee we returned to the car and continued up to Chania to reach the north highway. Mark was at this point feeling very tired and was a nodding dog however 2 sips of the Greek coffee, well, it was like he had taken a drug! He never stopped entertaining us until we reached Matala! Certainly gave him and Russ they kick they needed! The journey was fab in the dark with a twinkling sky. I can remember at one point as we headed south again Mark and I were hanging out the car windows viewing the spectacular sky. It was just after the point that we shut the windows and took our heads back into the car that we nearly had a crash! The road suddenly ended!! No warning before hand, no signs, nothing lit up to show that a large amount of large rocks had been placed across the road ahead. Russ slammed on the breaks and we just missed hitting them. This through the sleeping beauty’s head off Mark’s lap banging into the seat in front, Jules was oh oh what what, Mark said its ok nothing’s happened go back to sleep and she did! Jules was out for the count again! Meanwhile we got the map out to check where the diversion was going to take us and rerouted ourselves.

We reached the “hippy” village of Matala around 2230 I think. My goodness did we need a drink! So we checked in, showered and straight back down to the pool bar for drinks.

Our original plan for the next day was to drive the Amari Valley, something Russ and I did not get time to do the year before. This was a must for us. But with the late night driving we decided we would visit the Archaeology site of ??
This was not far from Matala and lovely and quiet on a hill. We wondered around reading the self-guides getting together at points to talk about what it would have looked like and been like living here as King and Queen. A really interesting place to visit.

We then drove to a village for lunch and to AGIOFARAGO Gorge which we had seen on the map, 40 minute walk to a secluded beach with large caves along the way. We drove the jeep as far as we dared then strolled along the dry river bed exiting at a lovely pebble beach with towering cliffs either side. A handful of people were already at the beach but is was so peaceful and quiet. A natural archway on the right of the beach tempted us to swim through which I think just Mark did, Russ and I not too keen on rough seas and was too wavy for us, though writing that I think Russ did do it in the end!
We relaxed and me becoming my usual restfulness decided to build a cairn, one already existed on the beach but try as we did we couldn’t match its height! Mark and Jules couldn't resist joining in whilst Russ slept, a well deserved sleep from the tiring day he had the day before. 

The gorge has been shaped near beds of 2 streams and where they meet there is a church nearby called St Kiriaki with a natural well. 

Returning to the jeep late afternoon and back to freshen up to discover the lovely quaint village of Matala. With it being late September the village was lovely and quiet, a seat to be found at every bar! Still people around but not at all crowded, just as we like it! My first impressions from the beach of the restaurant area around the left of the bay were not good. I hated the neon lights advertising them to me it really spoilt the bay. However once we had eaten we walked down the narrow path to the bars stopping for cocktails and Mythos along the way. I can imagine in the summer months it being very busy and I probably wouldn't even venture there however now it was lovely, a few people around to create an atmosphere but no struggle for seats or to hear each other talk. We loved the very end bar, but did try all of them! 

We stayed at the hotel right on the bay so a few minutes’ walk from the shops and the little streets leading to the central square.
 
Next day we gave Jules and Mark the choice of spending on their own or joining us for the all-day drive around the Amari Valley, they chose to join us and what a fabulous fun day we had with wonderful views and villages. Captain Russ was back entertaining us in the car as we drove around the valley's villages. We followed the drive through a book I had bought Drives and Walks in the Sunflower collection it is also featured in the DK Crete book with a double page describing the drive and villages you visit. This day, again, turned out to be one of the best of the holiday, in fact most days were! The valley is framed by 2 mountains, Kedros int eh west and Psiloritis in the east. the valley is full of olive, cherry and apricot trees and surrounded by some forty attractive hamlets perched on the mountain slopes. 
A memorable picturesque village called Thronos offers a unique view of Psilortis peaks and the valley. As we entered the village, an lovely old lady dressed of course in black, stood in front of our jeep waving a key at us. We stopped and she pointed to a tiny church on the right. So we felt totally obliged to park and enter the church. This is the Byzantine church of the Holy Mary that was build in the 14th century. We entered the tiny church and were in ore of the sight. With very little natural light the frescos were incredible, so old but so colourful and intact still. We couldn't take any photos but will treasure our memories and thanks to the lady in the street with they key.

We then looked for a taverna that had been recommended called Thornos and wow from here was the views talked about above, just stunning. It is also a hotel and the owner, a delightful gentleman provides guided walking tours too. We entered the courtyard through a small reception and then shop. The courtyard has a largish garden where we took many photos of the spectacular views. The food, well, it was the best Moussaka we had ever tasted. Mark regretted not having but his meat balls were too simply delicious. We ate like kings and queens, starters and dishes our host kept producing. It was all freshly cooked and so a wait for the food but my goodness who cared! I simply cannot recommend this place enough. Needless to say we were very full when we eventually dragged ourselves away. 

When we passed through Spilli we pulled over to visit the tower, not sure actually if this was in Spilli or another village. Anyway I think we had a coffee in someones house, I am convinced he was just some guy working on his laptop with his door open and not any kind of cafe at all. However he offered and we drank, very strong greek coffee! Whilst enjoying a couple of ladies came by and with long long metal pole began knocking at the tree near us. We realised after a while that they were harvesting walnuts. Simple fantastic life. 

Returning to Matala it was time to freshen up and head into the village square to celebrate Russ's birthday, the holiday, the gorge, everything! It was our last night and full of our wonderful lunch we just ate at a cafe and the Gyros well, it was amazingggggg, truly!

We played games, drank rather a lot and had a ball.

Next day we spend few hours before we left at 11 doing our own thing and then met up for the drive back to Chania for our evening flight. On the way we visited Arkadi Monastery, ate food nearby, the biggest Greek Salad we had ever had. Then made our way to Kalivaki beach eating at the village before heading to the airport at around 8pm. 

A fantastic holiday one of the best we have had. Fabulous country, sights, experiences, brilliant company, laughing so hard everyday our faces would ache. 

If you are planning a visit and would like to know anything more please ask as many travellers have helped me with my research.  

Here is a link to a few video's on You Tube, Matala Caves & Thronos Taverna in the Amari Valley

 https://youtu.be/E-2KK5XOxOs

https://youtu.be/k3gHdRDBp_0