Day 42-44 Stewart Island
Went to sleep in clear blue skies, awoke to clear blue skies. We had made the sensible decision to fly to Stewart Island. My track record on boats hasn't been great, it was quicker, avoided cycling to Bluff and back, and was only slightly more expensive. With the weather it was also fabulous. The pilot looked about 20 which worried me slightly, but he was confident and seemed to know what he was doing. Stewart Island is a bit like the Scillys with trees. White sandy coves. 20km of roads and lots of walks. We spent Sunday afternoon on Ulva, a small off island from which they have eradicated mammals. A short aside. Back in pre-history when New Zealand split off from Gondwana there were birds, a few lizards and the only mammals were two species of bat. So some of the birds stopped flying as there were no predators on the ground to eat them. Since the pakeha (Europeans) came they brought rats and mice and rabbits and stoats and weasels and deer and then possums from Australia. And the birds can't fly to get away so they are endangered or extinct. So there are programmes especially on small islands to eradicate the mammals to give the birds a chance. And Ulva is one of them. And very beautiful it is. We sat on the beach and swam and read and walked in the bush. Then back to Oban for the best fish and chips either of us has ever had. And then we fancied a beer. So we finally started our 3 day tramp of the Rakiura track at 6.15pm. Fortunately the first camp site, on Maori beach was only a 2 hour walk. We pitched the tent. And sat on the beach. And slept. Awoke late to a bit of drizzle so went back to sleep. Finally got off for day 2 of the tramp about 11.30. But it was fine. We had been warned about knee deep mud and almost turned back. 5 hours later and with fairly clean shoes we were at camp site number 2 at Sawdust bay. A picnic on the beach, and an early night. Day 3 we got up early and walked the final 3 hours back to Oban with eggs and bacon on our minds. Breakfast in the only hotel on the island didn't disappoint, then to the backpackers for a shower and a hairwash and laundry and food and rest. And then a twilight kayak trip in the hope of seeing the elusive kiwi. No joy. But we did see penguins and they are really cool. And tonight in a proper bed too......