12/5 Thursday Vilar de Cas to Lugo15km Well, for once I wasn't the last to leave today. I hadn't slept well so was awake when the early risers started moving around. Packed, had a quick breakfast and out on the trail soon after 8am. A short alternative route was suggested at the Albergue- it added 500m but was pretty so why not. The detour through forest passes the Iglesia de Soutomerille and continues gently down to Gondar where I caught up with Heike. The ro...

11/5 Wednesday O Cádavo Baliera to Vilar de Cas 15km Today, as is the norm, I’m on of the last to leave O Cádavo. The way climbs steadily upwards and into forests. Soon, at Alto de Vacariza there is a choice as the guidebook explains. The Galacian authorities have added alternative routes to the Camino and this is the first I’ve come across. Confusingly the complementary route is actually the original and looks a little more interesting and is a little fu...

10/5 Tuesday Fonsagrada to O Cádavo Baliera 24km Last night there was only one restaurant open so quite a pilgrim gathering. Galician bean and potato soup, padrón peppers and pulpo. Couldn't get more typical. Chatted with Heike, Wendy and 76 year-old Patrick from Prestwick, another veteran of many caminos. This morning my excess baggage goes by taxi. Why? The guide explains: The Camino between Padrón and O Cádavo is arguably the most...

9/5 Monday Castro to Fonsagrada 21km Last night we chatted to Wendy, a classical singer from Holland. I enjoyed fish and rice for dinner followed by a chocolate and almond ice cream! In the morning, I was awake at 6:45, just in time to see the sunrise. Breakfast with coffee and muesli which was a treat. Heike drank coffee and headed off without anything to eat as normal. I’m sure I’ll see her tonight. The morning light at 8 am was just glorious as I head...

8 /5 Sunday Grandas de Salime to Castro 5km After a couple of hard days it was either 5km or a hard 25km today. Heike and I both agreed an easy day was wise given 2 more tough mountain days ahead. As often, I was the last to leave around 9am after a long sleep disturbed by a group of 3 arriving in the dormitory towards midnight, flashing their torches and generally banging around when everyone was already asleep. Out into the overcast village I found a cafe ...