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Happy pre-valentine's day you chocolate-eating creatures of Amor. Many of the blogs I have read (and couple of my own post also), describes daily actions... what have been done, experienced and seen. This post is going to be a minor exception, I'm telling about the actions inside my head also... and like it or not, many things are related to surfing!
It is amazing how I still, after one month of living here, have the same smile while paddling out to the sea. Wouldn't change a day, even a crappy day. You never know what's going to happen or who you going to meet out there. I have met various people in the line-up, even some Finnish mates also. About a week ago I was on the Bingin beach and looking to a nearly flat sea. There was only one dude out, so I decided to paddle out. So there we sat in the flat sea, waiting for the waves and bonding. Dude was from South Africa and he told stories about his life, travels and surf. I responded telling my stories and experiences... nice moment to share and bond. After a while of chatting, I saw a third surfer paddling out to our direction. I mentioned, that somebody else is coming here also and the South African dude just told "yeah, that's my girlfriend". For the first time in many years, I was jealous...
Same day afternoon/evening I went to surf in Padang Padang. Little bigger waves and the sun set was something really amazing. It reminded me about the sun sets in my Father's summer cottage and those who have been there knows how good it is. For a while I felt like being there... thousands of kilometers away, but still there. Priceless moment and I'll cherish it for a long time. I also met a Dutch girl, Conchita, in the line-up and we bonded there while enjoying the sun set. Waves was getting little slow and small, so we decided to paddle in to the beach. Just after that decision, a set of good waves came and we both managed to get a nice last wave... nearly perfect ending for the great session. After that day, I've been hanging out with Conchita and her friend Dmitri... surfing makes good friends, that's why I still have that smile!
Life is an endless emotional roller coaster: One moment you are happy, spirited or peacefull... you know, all those good feelings. Then starts the downhill of the ride and you just have to hold on and survive. This day has been one of the worst days in my life. It began with an email. The message informed me that my good friend, all over from the first grade, has passed away... and I had to keep a presentation this morning in the school, wearing my poker face and tried to hold on without a tear. I really don't even realize the pain and agony yet, I know it's coming... and I really could need my family or friends now. It has been a hard and tiring day, but I wanted to share these thoughts: the good, the bad, the ugly and the beautiful ones. Now I'm sending my deepest condolences to the family, He was an amazing friend and will be missed. Rest in Peace!
Main picture: Sun set from my father's cottage
Picture 2: Sun Set Surfing from Padang Padang
Picture 3: Beach/Surf hangin'
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