14th July, Ormos Vromo, Zakynthos
We're on the island of Zakynthos, having arrived a few days ago after a surprisingly good, fast (8.4 kn) and gusty sail. We're out of charter land here and the other boats are longer term cruisers or locals on holiday. The Italians are piling in in their droves, all gesticulation and high pitched excitability. There are a surprising number of Scandinavians, mainly laid back Swedes. One lovely couple, he Swedish, she Spanish with a 4 yr old little girl (they can do laid back and excitable!). They are both teachers, on a little 29ft old Swedish boat, who have over the last 5 years sailed their boat in the holidays down from Sweden, via Poland and the canals and rivers to the Med exiting in the South of France. Their daughter was born a year into the adventure. The wife has learned Swedish, the husband speaks English, Spanish, German and French, and the little girl Anna is naturally already perfectly bilingual in the strange combination of Swedish and Spanish. She also keeps asking about English and so is learning that also - practising on us. What is my name? What is your name? How old are you? Can I show you my special toys? She has made a little nest for herself in the forepeak and is perfectly at home on their boat. A delight - bright, happy and sociable, but also perfectly content to play by herself in her own little world whilst her parents get on with their world. And she is picking up Greek quicker than her parents - and certainly quicker than us! So it is not just mega-yachts here and the mix is fascinating.

Meat: We have been amazed at the quality and quantity. The land is so dry and sparse, all maquis and garrigue, we hear sheep, goat and cow bells in the distance all the time (competing with the absolutely deafening sound of the crickets and cicadas). And wonder what on earth they eat and how they find any water to drink. They find shade in caves and sometimes come down to the water's edge to bathe and cool off. But the Greek locals tell us that Greeks are BIG meat eaters, and they love it if their visitors also appreciate the quality of their produce. They are puzzled by vegetarianism. Well, we are appreciating it, but also the beautiful olive oil, lemons and peaches and olives and tomatoes and minty dishes and yoghurt. Fish, we have had a bit of when we can, but it is not as plentiful nor as reasonable.

Now it is just too hot - has been well over 40C, and 33 C at night (3am!) making sleep difficult. Even the wind is hotter than blood temp, so is drying and heating rather than cooling. We have booked a flight home for a week tomorrow. They say it is unseasonably hot, that June and July have had August temperatures. We're struggling to cope with it. But yesterday was a cooler day, because we spent most of it in the water, snorkelling. Exhausted, because went quite far and there is a strong current running past the island. First we went to the Blue Caves on the NW corner of Zakynthos. A whole series of rock formations and caves and arches with the bluest of turquoise, crystal clear water. Then on to "Wreck Bay" (allegedly one of the most photographed bays in Greece, so here is a pic), a stunning bay of light blue water, stark white limestone cliffs with a small beach, that is entirely filled by the wreck of what looks like a tanker. The tripper boats come in to disgorge their hordes for a clamber over the wreck and have a swim in the spectacular surroundings. So we too did the tourist bit in our own boat, but stayed only an hour or so as it was very lumpy and turbulent (partly swell and partly zippy boats churning up the water). And now in Ormos Vroma (a Ster Wenn like inlet) where we have anchored and tied ourselves to the rocks behind. We are the only boat here. There are other local tripper boats, but empty and left for the night, so we had Vroma all to ourselves last night. Nice. Meant to try and go see the turtle nature reserve, but have run out of time.

Heading back north today. We need to be in Nidri by mid-week. We have not yet decided where to leave the boat come next weekend. Options are hauled back out in Preveza (safest, known quantity, etc. not cheapest though, nor as convenient). Or left under gardiennage in Nidri with Stephen Seath, who comes highly recommended. So next stop back in Poros on Kefalonia, then probably up the east side of Ithaca, Meganisi then Levkas. A sort of plan. x

ps. my job when anchoring and taking a line ashore is to do the driving while R drops anchor, then I go in water and swim ashore with line relayed out be R. Works pretty well, I do wear shoes, doesn't stop occasionally being stung by sea urchins. Ouch.