6th June, Gytheion

And now for the good bits

There is an upside to going round these capes (the alternative is the Corinth Canal, which we may well do on the return). The headlands all have impressive fortresses (like Pylos previously). We went progressively around Ak Soukouli to Methoni, then Ak Akritas to Koroni, Ak Tainaro to Porto Kayio (boo hiss ) and up from there to Gytheio where we now are.

We wanted to come here to visit Mystras, Free Spirit had a dead alternator so also wanted to come and try and sort it. It has been a good stop, sheltered in the harbour, helpful friendly people and we sat out some strong winds whilst visiting the area. It has a little island just off the harbour called Kranae - this is where Helen of Troy and Paris allegedly spent their first night when they eloped from Sparta together.

The whole peninsula, call the Mani, is famous. The Maniotes were (and are still) very tough, very independent and clannish. Their architecture is distinctive - beautiful stonework, the houses castellated and tall with small dark eyes as windows. Even villages are fortified to protect themselves from their marauding neighbours. A mixture of high, bleak mountains and fertile plains, they produce award winning olive oil, honey, citrus fruits, pork and other products. It is home to the Spartans, fierce and tough.

Whilst here, we took advantage once again of the idiosyncratic bus system to visit the Caves of Diros. These are an extensive network of caves on an underground lake linked to the sea. We took a boat trip underground through a series of passageways and open rooms with large weirdly-shaped stalagmites and stalagtites. The fossilized bones of panthers, hyenas, lions, deer and the largest collection of hippopotamus bones in Europe have been found inside as well as the pottery and Neolithic remains.

And then to the highlight of the visit - the fortress-city ruins of Mystras. Built in 1249, this is a complete medieval Byzantine town built up the side of a mountain above Sparta. It consists of a Lower Town, Upper Town including Palaces, Churches, houses, surrounded by walls and each with their own Gateway, a Monastory perched precariously and finally the fortified Kastro (castle) atop the mountain. The site is vast and is the most complete and well preserved example of its kind. It had sophisticated water storage, plumbing and sewerage systems. It was a cultural centre to which scholars came and was closely linked with Constantinople.

But it also saw its fair share of turmoil and atrocities, in the distant and not so distant past. As late as the early 20th C, Greeks hunted their fellow Greeks hiding there through the ruins like rabbits and cut them down or starved them out. And with the revolution thousands of children were taken from their homes and began the long mountainous trek to enforced new "homes" in the Eastern Bloc countries.

It was a long hard climb to the top, but not one I would have missed for all the world. The Gateways were narrow to keep out attackers, the stone and brickwork was beautiful, the rounded domes the churches, arches and still vibrant frescos and painting are evident. Also evident were the strict planning regulations that resonate today.

And so today we head south again to the last cape (Ak Maleas) before entering the Aegean. We aim to stop overnight somewhere around Nisos (island) Elafinisos to weather watch and hope round the cape tomorrow morning. And find a Pussycat.

Postscript 7th June, Monemvasia

Pussycat found, we had such a good, gentle sail that we took the executive decision around lunchtime not to stop and carried on round the cape in calm, sunny weather today. 59nm and settled in Monemvasia by 7pm. Very civilised. Welcome to the Aegean.