Desert Island Sunday 6th September

We arrived back at the boat last Tuesday at 6.30am to a day promising to be meltingly hot. We discovered in our absence that the area had experienced a very localised, freak "hurricane", lasting about 20 minutes and with wind force estimated at F14/15! It caused one pontoon to break free complete with boats, and damage to canopies, sprayhoods, lines, rigging and warps. We had not known anything about it: the marina had not contacted us as, after checking everything, our boat was completely intact and unscathed. We are thankful for that (and for the doubled up springs we put on before leaving).

We had originally thought to nip over to Turkey on the ferry the next day to visit the ancient site of Pergamon - another on the bucket list. But it was far too hot and we were tired, so after a major stock-up we set off to find some swimming.

Leaving Mytilini and its fine castle, we were surprised at the difference a month has made. There had been a steady stream of Syrian refugees before. Now it is on an epic scale. The waterfront under the castle is lined with tents. This is only an island; there is no infrastructure to cope with this level of influx, basics like water, toilets, septic tanks at capacity, etc. The Greeks are themselves struggling economically, this is making it worse by impacting their tourist revenue and there is little or no help from the international community. The politicians need to stop waffling and actually do something. Talking about long term prevention does nothing to feed the little children here, now. They come from all walks of life: doctors, teachers, scientists, builders. Yet the famous Greek hospitality is still evident - they are a compassionate lot - we have seen ordinary people add a refugee's meagre shopping basket to their own in order to pay for both. We feel a bit uncertain and guilty about being here at leisure, but are assured that all visitors are needed and wanted - we are part of their livelihoods. So we carry on.

We found a lovely bay shared only by another French yacht, with clear water to start us off. The next morning we watched as a black RIB neared the shore, overflowing with people. They got stuck on a reef and finished their journey by wading through the water to the shore. About 40-50 people, children included. A coastguard vessel stood by in case anyone got into difficulties but did not otherwise interfere. Once ashore (and sounding cheerful / relieved), they stopped for an hour to gather their wits and dry off, then started the long, hot walk to Mytilini to register. Then a 2nd RIB appeared, made a better landing and followed the same pattern. That was c. 100 people on one morning in one rather remote bay. It must be many hundreds in total across the island on a daily basis now. The shore and the waters are littered with lifejackets, rubber rings and abandoned boats.

We have now come further north on the island to a group of islets - a mini archipelago called Nisidhes Tomaria. Here is the picture postcard desert island - minus the palm trees. Richard has been playing with his underwater camera and a new wide-angled lens he bought for his Nikon. Clear turquoise water, white beaches and sand spits, and nothing but goats, dolphins and fish for company. At least at first…. Now the weekend has arrived and with it the local population out to play in big boats and small. But beautiful. Hot, clear and no wind, so we have stayed put - why motor somewhere out of paradise?