Porto Leone, Kalamos

Very mixed weather, the UK has done better we think! Several days in Sivota with thunderstorms and international neighbours and wildlife visitors. The wildlife consisted of a cricket-like creature (Ephippiger) that took up residence on our sprayhood. The neighbours were an East Coast couple - he a Yachmaster Instructor Examiner's Examiner, etc - got some useful tips there (like forget about all these man overboard recovery gimmicks). A German single-hander mit gorgeous dog on the other side. And an Australian, also single-handed, who was not used to worrying about battery power due to Aussie self-sufficiency in solar panels. So he had a crash course from Richard on batteries and amps, volts, charging and discharging, etc. Sorry Jane!! A convivial place and we're sort of getting the hang of stern-to-quay mooring.

A short diversion back to Nidri for a food stock up and meet for dinner at Vliho YC with friends Colin and Shirley on Silent Wings. And back to Meganisi, this time to Port Atheni, one of the "finger bays". Silent Wings joined us there, anchored off with lines to the shore. Great walks around the headlands, staggering views over to islands and mainland, hot weather and swimming for a change. And an excursion of about a mile inland to the little village of Katomera, perched on a hill - all winding streets and steps between levels. I have been trying to find a post box to send off a birthday card - sure there should have been one, but couldn't find it. Sorry J, birthday is late this year.

We did, however, find the most extraordinary butcher. Silent Wings needed some meat (to share our barbecue); none to be found in the village. The little "supermarkets" had buckets, tomatoes and litres of wine in plastic bottles, but no meat. So we asked. "Oh yes, a bit of a walk. Go straight on, not left or right, out of the village, past the "Precious Club" and there is a building on the left. You get meat there."

We followed instructions, but no butcher. The road disappeared off into the scrubby hills. We backtracked and R went into this warehouse type building that looked a cross between an industrial catering supplies place and a hardware centre. Two people sat on comfy chairs in there - the lady said welcome - made a phone call and gestured for us to sit and wait. A few minutes later, a car roared up, screeched to a halt and out leapt son (or some relation) who spoke English.

We followed him into the back where he opened huge doors of a refrigeration room. He produced the best meat we have seen for a long time - all local animals, best quality, not frozen - fore-ribs of beef, huge steaks, tiny lambs, big chickens, etc. We explained we were on boats and could not cope with industrial-sized quantities - no problem, he cheerfully selected and cut to order for just a few Euros. We could not resist and stocked up also.

And now we are on the island of Kalamos. We had a cracking sail from Meganisi (speed 7.8kn NW F5), but as we turned round the top of the island the wind whipped through 180 degrees. It dropped to nothing then back up to F5/6 and we had a confusing, gusty roller-coaster ride down, first between Kalamos and the mainland and then the little channel between Kalamos and neighbouring island of Kastos. Into Porto Leone, a little bay containing a deserted village. The water supply to the village was destroyed in the 1953 earthquake and the residents left. Some return every Sunday from Kalamos Port though to clean the Church and say prayers.

Hot yesterday, rain overnight and cool now. We have yet to see the settled Greek summer weather. We're thinking of slowly working our way to the Gulf of Patras and Corinth to have a look in there and visit Delphi (must consult the Oracle) before heading back out to the islands.

Hope all's well with everyone, esp MCLI. xx