Reflections on Italy16th September Santa Maria di Leuca Heel of ItalyIn Sicily and southern Italy all the villages and towns close off their "Lungomares" (shore roads) and other streets around the main piazzas to traffic. They become pedestrian zones from 9pm to 2am every evening during the summer, so that the locals can participate in the national past-time of promenading and chattering. They all come out - children, families, young lovers, teen crowds, old duff...

11th Sept - Meanwhile back in Sicily and 2nd Story of "Tre"We had a classic "channel crossing" Comino Island (Malta) to SE tip Sicily - 59nm of sunny skies and flat seas, gentle winds, at first just forward of the beam, then just behind - enough to do a steady 5.5-6 knots under sail. Next day a hop up to Siracusa - it has been such a treat to be here and revisit the market. Gastronomy is not one of Malta's charms. The produce back here is fresh and lush and abun...

Something of Sicily -Tuesday, 19th JulyOne for the Sailors and one for AllSailors: Well they were pussycats. Mind you we had no wind at first, left at 5.30am and motorsailed most of the way (35nm) to reach the top of the Strait bang on midday. Even though flat calm the wind did suddenly blow 20kn around Scylla and the water went from dancing riplets to oily calm and from 2 plus SOG kn to 2 minus SOG kn within the space of minutes, indicating whirlpools beneath...

Aeolian Islands - Monday 11th JulyWe have loved these islands - they are all different. We left Stromboli and stopped for lunch at Panarea en-route to Lipari. Just a rocky tip of a crater really rising vertically out of the sea. Whilst there we happened to be looking in the direction of Sicily when we saw a huge mushroom plume rise high in the air. Taking compass sight, we were sure it was Etna (over 50nm away) and the plume did seem a bit big. Saw later on BBC...

Stromboli - Volcano puffing awayQuick postscript to Agropoli - really, really nice! Our last evening climbed up to the old town, there was a concert by local young singers on, traditional songs, in the Byzantine Castle. Lots of people, atmosphere and we could walk and climb everywhere in the castle. 11pm and everyone was still out in the winding streets and in restaurants including babies and the ancient.120nm south of Agripoli now with one stop in Capo Pulinaro ...