Nisos Dhespotika 13th May 2014

We have been carving a path through the western Cyclades and heading south.

A word first about birthdays. Richard's is tomorrow. This year we (I) have not planned ahead - a first, but other things at home before leaving were more pressing / important. BUT. Poros was lovely, however, unless R suddenly fancies wearing dangly earrings and brightly coloured dresses, there were no shopping opportunities for me.

And so to the Cyclades. There are 39 largely barren, craggy islands - some of them volcanic. On Saturday, we stopped at the lovely sandspit on Kithnos, with a fabulous sunset to match. In the morning, we watched sheep make their way across the spit to the little islet the other side - their daily exercise and munch. On then southeast, accompanied by a couple of dolphins, to the island of Serifos, once famed for its ironworks. We spent the evening and night in a sheltered bay by a sleepy hamlet. So sleepy, that only two dogs barked, a herd of goats bleated in unison and one old soul cast a fishing line from the shore. But then excitement! A truck trundled down the hill, a loudhailer broadcasting a message. Was it the fruit-and-veg man, the rag-and-bone man? Then I caught the word "kotopouloi" - chicken. He was selling live chickerns, whether laying hens or eaters I do not know. Was this an unusual present opportunity? A chicken on the boat? A mascot? Would himself be pleased? I reluctantly let go of the idea. It's going to be a lean birthday.

Yesterday, we ventured further southeast, to the wonderfully named island of Dhespotiko. It has a large, safely tucked-away bay, favoured by pirate galleons of old as a hideaway. Here only kestrels, more goats and Free Spirit for company.

We are weather watching, there are a few days of strong winds ahead and we need to put ourselves somewhere safe. With shops.

The reason for all this rushing south is to visit the island of Thira (or Santorini), the volcanic crate and island one has seen so many pictures of. Being a steep-to, exposed volcanic isle, it is a challenge finding the right weather and the right spot to visit for a bit.

So today (F5/6), we are taking a small detour north to the sheltered town and harbour of Naoussa at the top end of Paros Island. Lots to see and do while we sit out this blow. And shops. R might get a birthday baklava yet.