Monday, 1st July Eretria, Evia Island Heading for the Bridge

A week on and a week of contrasts. From Poseidon's temple we decided on a whim to go to the island of Kea, the westernmost of the Cyclades. The islands in the Saronic Gulf (Poros, Hydra, etc) are covered in pine with a characteristic dry piney scent. Kea was a very barren rock, where it was covered, it was just a bit of scrubby garrigue. These are bleak. We wanted to go on to Kithnos and then Siros, where our neighbour was visiting (an island she has been going back to for umpteen years). We thought it would be fun to drop by and see her. Unfortunately, another bout of meltemi winds were forecast and we reluctantly decided we ought to head north, up the inside of the island of Evia (Evvoia).

Evia is the 2nd largest island of Greece after Crete, but not well known as a holiday destination by foreigners. It is about 100miles long, a finger running roughly SE to NW. About 2/3rds of the way up the gulf between the mainland and the island narrows from about 5-8 miles to only 40 metres. Here there is a sliding bridge that opens for passing craft only at night, sometime between 10pm and 4am, when there is slack water. Apparently above the bridge high water is about 1 ½ hours before below the bridge, the imbalance causing currents of up to 7 knots north or south depending. The procedure is complicated and there is a fee. More on that later.

Evia is more wooded than the Cyclades, with a ridge of mountains running down its length. On the Aegean side of the island the meltemi winds blow fiercely and the Kithira straits are legendary in their turbulence that can cause even large container ships to treat them with respect. Hence we are going up the inside in the relatively sheltered waters between the mainland and the island. That said we have had our share of challenging conditions mixed with the calmer bits. But always with blue skies, heat and the opportunity of a swim or two.

Yesterday we sailed up from a nice little town called Karastos to the ferry town of Eretria in the company of 3 Italian boats. They all left first, all bigger than us (one of them a 44ft X-Yacht) sailing on their genoas only. We left at our leisure, put all our sails up and tacked the 15 or so miles up here, slowly but surely closing the gap on each tack. Not that we were faster necessarily, but with the main up were pointing that much higher. And beat them all to Eretria. The nice gentleman on the lead Italian boat bowed to us as they arrived at anchor about 20 minutes after us. Not bad for a little boat in a strongish wind (technical sailing term!) and a bit of a lumpy sea.

Today, we are waiting for the lumpiness to subside for a bit before heading up to Khalkis Bridge. We will go to the Port Police, do the paperwork, suss out the procedure, and wait to be called to go through the bridge at some unearthly hour tonight. Apparently it is quite an experience.

Khalkis bridge to come.