Thurs 7th June

Two postscripts to Messalonghi. First, we found Byron's statue - in the Garden of Heroes - a wonderful place commemorating all those, Greek and foreign, who fought for Greece's independence. Most of the foreigners' plaques have their names in their own languages. The inscriptions on Byron's statue are in Greek only (so almost missed it except for the Byronic pose), so a compliment from the Greek people to this Hellenophile (not a word really, I know). A rather touching place.

The second is the play factor (and preen factor) for the local Greek young men. Money may be tight, but heavens, they spend a fortune at the barbers and zoom about posing in their "wheels". These may be sports cars, pick-up trucks, or other motorised vehicles. The common factor is they are shined to the nth degree, are driven like maniacs with windows down and music blaring, leaving as much rubber on the road as possible when starting off and when doing their handbrake turns…. Shades of 50's-60's USA. I remember doing a few handbrake turns myself on occasion. Also rather touching.

Left finally, (turtles for company) heading for tiny harbour of Navpaktos, east along the Gulf of Patras to the Rion Bridge where it narrows to a mile across; radio ahead for instructions on where to transit the bridge, and on into the Gulf of Corinth. Navpaktos is difficult to moor in (a squeeze and you need a helping hand) but once in is a little gem of a place with an enormous imposing Byzantine, later Venetian castle in five layers rising up the hill from the town and harbour. A long climb up, but worth it for the view alone, let alone the impressive ramparts. Here, goats for company. Fantastic old hardware shop, come Aladdin's cave, something out of the early 20th C. RCP, eat your heart out.

Wednesday, after the climb headed out further east into the Gulf. The Italian boat next to us had a weather forecast of no wind and hot. Ours concurred. We had a gusty and fast run in a F7 for most of the way to the tiny island of Trizonia - a fairly sheltered stopover place that many boats and people seemed to have forgotten to leave. Like many in Greece, this started to be built as a marina, but was abandoned as money and enthusiasm ran out. The basic structure is here, but boats are littered about, with one two master sadly on its side and sunk with only the masts showing. Quite a few transient real-live boats too I hasten to add. Here geese for company.

Today, Thursday, to Galaxidhi, an attractive old town from whence we hope to visit Delphi. More creatures for company - one confused gander with 3 ducks in tow. We are now in the area of recognisable names, like Delphi, Amfissa (of olives and jars) and Mt Parnassos. The forecast is for the temps to get up into the mid 30's - strange to see snow on the mountain tops still. The scenery as we go along the Gulf is stunning. Few pictures as cameras are insufficient to capture in depth.

Galaxidhi is tucked into an inlet, not much room to swing a cat, let alone a 40m monster motor cruiser. But there is a coterie of British, Germany, Norwegian and French boats here, many also wanting to visit Delphi. The place is very pretty, the town charming and on the other side of the inlet are pines and cool shady slopes leading down to the water's edge. Off now to the café that apparently serves also as the local bus terminal to find out how to get to Delphi.

Take care all our sailing friends in the Channel and Brittany - your conditions look truly awful for the next little while - hope you are all tucked up somewhere safe!
xx