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Well, all I can say is we tried and failed - this time. We had been trying to get to Olympia, to see where the Olympic games all started in 776 BC, although the site of Olympia has been inhabited since the 3rd millennium BC. We wanted to do it before the London Olympics and failed (logistics got in the way). So now, better late but at least still in the right year. We scooted down the islands, from Ithaka to Kefalonia, on down to Zakynthos and then across to the mainland at Katakolon. From there one can take a dedicated little train, or a series of buses to the ancient site. We had been watching weather forecasts and knew there was going to be a windy spell, with some rain and the odd thunderstorm. We thought that a cloudy spell of cooler weather was just the thing for an exploration inland, with the boat tucked up in Katakolon port.
We anchored off in Katakolon bay Wednesday night, watching the manoeuvring of the enormous Costa Fascinosa cruise ship not 200m away. We went into harbour early the next morning to suss out the travel options, only to be advised by the harbourmaster that the port would not be safe or comfortable in the coming winds. Apparently even the previous night, those in the port were rocking about and more uncomfortable than we were outside at anchor. Every single other yacht there left that morning. We bowed to their experience and decided regretfully also to leave. But not before buying 8 kilos of oranges for €5 from a little old man and the back of his van - not sure why. The only options, given the forecast, was a port over 40 nm to the South or Killini, 28 odd nm to the North at the entrance to the Gulf of Patras. As we were not wanting to go further south yet (and a long way to go if it also turned out not to be a good option), we came north. So Thursday we had a good sail up with blue skies and a following wind, ending the trip with a F5 and building cloud.
The port was not what we expected. There was an enormous ferry port, then a little entrance to a fishing port. There was only one other leisure yacht in there, a French boat that had also sailed up from Katakolon. Mooring stern to with a side wind and uncertain holding was not easy - we needed three attempts at it before being satisfied we would be secure, and the French couple kindly helped by taking our lines. That night it was thunder and lightning, driving rain and high winds, we saw 45 kn, our French neighbours recorded 50 knots. And not from the expected direction, so those boats with extra securing lines on one side only (the wrong side) were pushed sideways onto other boats. Our anchor and lines held. Our friends on Silent Wings had remained in Zakynthos, where mayhem ensued with anchors dragging everywhere and boats careering about. Friday was a day of continuous wind and thunderstorms, today the winds have eased but the rain has stayed. We are holed up, had drinks and commiserations with our French couple, who seem to have lost their electrics - whether due to lightning strikes or the vagaries of the Greek power supply they do not know.
We have been lucky - our only casualty was our last remaining big fat fender that was protecting our stern - it disappeared sometime Thursday night, much to our annoyance. We looked everywhere for it on Friday. On Saturday, we saw it hanging up on a fishing boat (they have huge net reels and catch very large swordfish), the owner had fished it out of the water somewhere and displayed it to be claimed by its owner. We were very grateful to him, he disappeared quickly but we will try and repay him with a drink or something!
Apart from being a safe haven, Killini is - well probably not THE worst, but getting on that way, sorry little town we have been to. There is nothing here, few people, a couple of most basic shops and empty cafes and dingy restaurants. That is not just the rain talking. Even in sunshine, there is little to redeem itself. It is probably salutory and does one good occasionally…..
The sun is due to shine again on Monday, although we may head out who knows where tomorrow (Sunday). It will not be back south to Olympia however. We will do that on our way south next Spring when we go round the bottom of the Peloponnese and into the Aegean. We have friends Margaret and Roger from Magnetic Attraction (affectionately known as the Magats) joining us on Kefalonia a week Tuesday, so will need to be back there by that Monday.
Cabin fever is setting in. If only the rain will stop, there is a 13th C castle somewhere within walking distance - would be good to investigate this afternoon. Hoping the sun is shining where you are - and Sophie, enjoy the Goodwood Revival.
- comments
Mark Raymond Ganzer Wendy, you are SUCH a marvelous writer. Thank you so much for taking the time to post of your adventures, misadventrues, and cheating card playing companions. I hope you are making money with your writing (if that is something you would want to do), but it is such a gift that you have. So much like being there - I shared a couple of your blog posts with my mother, and she was just thrilled and enthralled at the way you made your journeys come alive (Anne was the world traveler, well, my sister, Marianne, also ... mom was a stone-cold Anglo-phile, with an especially soft place in her heart for Ireland. Another of my dear friends, Dr Ken Bennett, PhD, chairman emeritus of the Dept of Eng Lit, Lake Forest College and his wife DJ (Doris Jean) used to spend about 4-6 weeks a year in Jolly Ole England ... DJ, who had done some original Blake scholarship for her Masters, decided she did not want to be a research PhD, and instead took up with abandon the world of homespun arts - stichery and such, studying design in Soho back in the late 60's and early 70's. She authored (at least) two books on the subject. Ken did an analysis of all of Shakespeare's sonnetts, which is published online: http://campus.lakeforest.edu/kbennett/sonnets/ it's a fascinating read ... he did it the old fashioned way -- two sonnetts a day (he analzyed) EACH and EVERY" day until all 154 had been done ... which is about time the REAL work was begun. Good health, peace & blessings upon the two of you, and also upon all of them that you love, and also upon all of them that love you.
Sylvia I was on Syros then, and we just had cloud, and about 10 drops of rain (we counted). Fortunate, since my tent there is apparently not of the waterproof variety. Ruined the sunbathing for a few days, though.