Anyone for Pythagoras? Tuesday, 3rd June 2014

We liked Leros, and have in fact booked Myrica in for next winter at the boatyard in the North. Nothing but good views and we can walk to the miniscule airport to catch the tiny plane (technical term, I know a lot about planes) to Athens for convenient connection to home in October.

We were keen to explore some of the smaller islands north of there, an archipelago that has become a Wildlife Refuge Area. We went first to Lipso, a little jewel with a most beautiful little village. Its centre had a fine church on a hill surrounded by the village square, little lanes up and down and twisting around, climbing vivid bougainvillea and pots and pots of brilliant flowers. Then rock-hopping through rocks and islets to Arki and then Marathos. A few houses, a little port, but otherwise as nature intended, the only sounds being the tinkle of goat bells in the distance. Beautiful and remote.

So far we haven't seen any of the wildlife under protection here - Bonelli Eagles, Eleanora Falcons, monk seals, big turtles, the odd whale. We did see two eagles (we were pretty sure) last week on Pserimos, but not sure what variety.

A few days of glorious weather, but we are watching as there is a big blow due to come through on Wednesday. Some parts of the Aegean are forecasting F8-F9s, but we have put ourselves north of the worst of it and have come even further north to Samos. To Pythagorion, named after the famous mathematician of 6th C BC whose hypotenuse theorem we all learn as children. A beautiful town, touristy yes on the waterfront, but stretching up the hill towards the church and castle via remarkably straight lanes laid with stone lined with trees and flowers. There were 3 Ancient Wonders of the world here, one of them a 1km long tunnel bored through the mountain, a phenomenal engineering feat in 6th C BC. The tunnel was dug out from either end, it took 15 years and when the two ends met up, they were only a few feet from each other.

Samos (birthplace of goddess Hera) is an island of high mountains, gullies and gorges, rivers and springs, oaks and pines - it was renowned for its beauty. Polykrates made it a powerful centre for trade (a fleet of 100 ships), art, architecture and philosophy. It was home to many famous names - apart from Pythagoras, there was also the 5th C BC sculptor also called Pythagoras, the philosopher Epicurus (4th C BC) and astronomer Aristarchos (3rd C BC) who apparently had already sussed out what Copernicus and Galileo found out later.

It is also only 2km from Turkey, coming north today to Samos Town (or Vathi), we could just about spit at it going through the strait. We are here to ride out the worst of tomorrow's weather. The pilot book said there is a long town quay to moor up against, plus a little yacht club/harbour and is also a ferry port. Got here about an hour ago, and very odd it is too. It is empty (we were worried we would not find space with lots of other boats sheltering). The entire quay is cordoned off (road works or something), the little yacht harbour is full of fishing boats and we have been forced to anchor off in this huge bay. And it has started raining! Just shows you can't get it right all the time….

The old town on the hill looks interesting, if only we can get to it tomorrow maybe. Then next stop Turkey finally?