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20th July 2013 Skopelos A Week with Deck Fluff and Rubbish
With photos mostly courtesy of S, A & R. Deck Fluff is obviously Sophie (well could hardly be Alastair now could it?). So named as, due to a recent boating accident (arm broken, plated and screwed together), she was only allowed sunbathing duty, helming and passage planning. And Alastair is Rubbish (self-proclaimed as he and rubbish signs seemed to have a magnetic attraction - see pic). But otherwise quite capable really - in the washing up department, bbq-ing, tweaking and all other sailing activities. As an ocean-crossing experienced skipper, so he should be, and Wendy could have a holiday and concentrate on important things. Like food.
Their arrival was not without incident. They took a taxi from the airport to Volos. Now Greek drivers have the reputation as being the worst in Europe. Their driver decided to overtake a van on a blind bend (as they do) and didn't quite make it. Side-swiped said van, passenger door damaged (luckily passengers, although somewhat bemused, were undamaged!). Taxi driver and van occupants hurled abuse at each other. Having got that out of their system, they carried on their separate ways without so much as an exchange of names, let along insurance details.
We have had a great week, couple of thunderstorms with lightning overnight, the rest hot and sunny. In deference to Sophie's arm and uncertain winds, we kept the small jib on rather than the repaired genoa. In the windy and gusty bits, we were glad of it and had some great sails - in the lighter airs we could have done with the larger size.
The Sporades are beautiful - lunchtime bay stops for swims and evening stops, some in bays for more swims and bbq's, and some in little ports for ambience and tavernas. And snorkeling for sea anenomes and ancient pottery. A good mix. At one taverna in Steni Vala on Alonnisos Island, we had mixed fish, with a variety of starters to share - including Rocks on Fire. Now when the waiter asked whether we wanted Rocks on Fire, we were a bit puzzled and thought it must be an exotic local dish. Lost in translation? Actually was rock samphire, and very nice it was too.
We zipped past Skiathos (lunchtime stop) , on to a little bay on Skopelos for the night and another for midday. Whooshed up to Alonnisos (lovely beachside bar in Mourtias), the start of the Outer Sporades and the Marine Conservation Area, over to neighbouring Periskeri, getting wilder and further out to Panayia. Here we did a complete Round the Island, we wanted to go to the top where there is a completely enclosed bay called Planitis. The entrance has a bar and with winds from the NE, anything exceeding a F5 kicks up a dangerous swell and turbulence. Boats have been known to get stuck in inside for days on end. We did not have that time luxury, so went in for a quick swim, lunch and recce, then continued on round the island to beautiful Panayia bay in the south. A thunderstorm overnight, a NE F5-7 in the morning and we knew we had made the right decision not to stay in Planitis.
And time to head back, not all the way to Volos, but stopping at different places including delightful Steni Vala and Peristeri cove, ending up in Skopelos town. Quite touristy, but very picturesque with narrow steps and streets winding up the hill, white-washed houses festooned with vines, bourgainvillea and pots and pots filled with flowers and herbs.
Too soon, over. We were treated to meals out and presents, thank you both - we really enjoyed it all! It was nice to have people capable of looking after themselves and the boat. (Apart from Sophie's arm, we were paranoid as the break has not yet healed and she only had a sort of removable protective brace). Sadly did not see any dolphins or monk seals. Maybe next time……
Postscript: They had the journey home from hell, always a fly in the ointment. Or is it a mosquito?
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