Saturday, 25th May 2019
Cruising in Company in the Middle Cyclades

Three of the Hallberg-Rassy's have stuck together. We've explored the delights of little Schoinoussa, first in a sheltered anchorage on the east side. Here we met up with 2 Italian boats, one of which was with us in Amorgos. An impromptu beach party ensued that evening; four Italians and 6 Brits. You meet such interesting people. Italian skipper Massimo runs a dive centre in Egypt - Yacht Ginny got to know him well when they cruised the area. One of Massimo's guests was a young Italian lady who worked for the UN in Lebanon. Journalist, doctors, a previous Decca specialist who spent part of his working life in Vietnam and other parts of the Far East. The couple on Panacea had a fund of stories. She (ex-nurse) was clearly ship's engineer; her brother is an explorer, author and presenter on Coast. All well-travelled, all interesting!

Round to the south of the island for one night, then on round to the little port on the west side. The Chora is pretty, perched on top of the hill above the port with paved and painted path and steps leading straight up to it. The others went on the quay. Myrica opted for free anchoring. Until Phil on Panacea excitedly informed us water was available. So we too joined them on the quay, filled our tank and the 6 of us went ashore for dinner.

A bit of a south-easterly blast was forecast. We all decided Naousa on the north side of Paros was the place to be for that and set off slowly. Winds were light at first and we opted for a slow sail on the genoa alone with the wind behind us. It was due to build later in the day to a F6. The others were well ahead of us (faster with some engine on!). On reaching the top of Paros, hanging a left and hardening up, the wind picked up as promised. And continued picking up past what was promised. We entered Naousa harbour on an angle, hard on the wind, screaming along in a F8. Panacea (already tucked up) assured us over the radio that it was much calmer in the anchorage. So we pressed on and it didn't abate until we were already hard pressed in amongst the anchored boats. A quick furl, anchor down, reverse engine to dig in and, voila, we too were now set.

Naousa is an attractive fishing port that is going upmarket, with cafes, restaurants, jewellery shops and designer ladies clothes. We ended staying 3 nights and took the opportunity to go by bus (still love Greek buses) to Paroikia (island capital) and on a ferry over to Andi-Paros. In both, the old towns have narrow paved lanes, low arches and colourful flowers against the bright white stucco. Paros is famed (like Tinos) for its marble - the marble for the Venus de Milo on Milos came from here. Even the gutting and cleaning tables and sluices on the fishing quay are made of marble.

With more wind forecast from a different direction, all 3 boats moved to a beautiful anchorage in the NW corner of the bay. All around the headland and peninsula are waymarked hiking paths: to the lighthouse, to beaches, to strange rock formations, to a little monastery, and to what looked like a lover's leap cliff. Here the path ended with a red blob on the stone and a circular arrow. No Satnav this, but "turn around when possible" - preferably before falling off the cliff.

One more beach party with W having a go on Fi's paddleboard and we said our farewells. We are heading for Tinos, Ginny to Renia and then points north, and Panacea to ancient Delos and Mykonos. As it turned out, Ginny has decided to miss Renia out and head on to Tinos with us.

We are aiming to go north. Last time (a few years ago) we went up the Evia Channel, a long way, and experienced the night opening of the Evia bridge to let boats through - a frantic dash in the middle of the night competing with the bobbing lights of the accompanying fishing boats. We are glad we have done it once. But again? The other alternative is up Tinos, Andros, then a "channel crossing" to Skyros and on up. Timing and weather is all. If on the west side of Andros, one needs to go through the Kafirea (doro) Strait. It has a fearsome reputation. Which to choose?