Back to Boats, Goats, Donkeys & Earthquake Aftermath

Monday 4th September 2017

We had a good trip back last Tuesday, arriving in our little hotel in Kos town about 10.30pm local time, and popped out for a quick bite and a little recce. On the flight, we sat next to a British hotel owner who described the effects of the July earthquake. Buildings that still stood on the outside (including some hotels) were rubble on the inside. The economic impact for local businesses, hotels and others is significant as they are uninsured against "Acts of God" or Force Majeure. The pavements and the ferry quay ruptured and significant damage was done to the Castle.

On Wednesday morning, we had a better view of the earthquake aftermath described by our friendly hotelier. It will take many many months to repair the damage. We caught the 11.00am ferry to Leros: the ferry buildings and quay are unusable and they were only just craning in portakabins as ticket offices when we arrived. We were directed to a cordoned-off area that was relatively sound and the ferry collected us from the hammerhead end of the pier.

Arrival by ferry is quite fun. Everyone swarms off the boat - the chaps having plonked all the Leros luggage in the middle of the lower deck for us to scramble and find. We made a beeline for the bakery (lunch fodder) and made our way to the bus stop, next to the water and the taxi rank and the man with his open van selling fresh produce. We knew (or had hoped) he would be there. He said we had 10 minutes until our bus came, so he could stock us up with essentials whilst we waited. Perfect. There are no shops up near the boatyard.

Our cheerful, noisy bus driver took us straight to the boatyard gates, got out and helped us with our bags, and gave us a jaunty farewell toot of his horn as he left. We did not have much to do before launching Myrica the next morning - just the usual sorting, testing and hosing down. The birds have been unusually active in our absence, leaving messy calling cards all over the deck. Yuck.

Before launching Richard wanted to lubricate the engine impeller, so unscrewed the water strainer to pour some soapy fresh water down it. Screwing the top back on, it cracked and broke - no idea why other than it being 17 years old. Oh oh, it won't vacuum seal, we can't run the engine, we can't launch the boat. The crane was trundling down towards us; we were next to be put in. R explained the problem to the driver, dashed off to the Chandlery. They could order a replacement Volvo unit to arrive in 4 days or we could have a Vetus brand equivalent that would fit. A quick check of sizes and we took the Vetus option - €91 worth. Our crane driver patiently waited whilst we replaced the unit, tightened all up and tested. Good to go, we were lifted and dropped in the water in double quick time. End of techie detail. No hanging about, we set off immediately for a 10nm downhill sail to the main town Lakki in a F5/6 and rolling seas.

Lakki was packed. We couldn't get a slot in the marina and the town quay was crammed. We joined about 20 other boats at anchor in the harbour. Oh well, we can do a major stock up by dinghy - several trips' worth. Returning from one, I was getting into the dinghy, put my hand onto the rough quay to steady myself and felt the sharpest needle-like pain I have felt in a long time - I had accidentally tried to squash a large hornet, who retaliated by giving his all to stinging me. Bees, wasps and mozzies have little effect on me. The hornet sting was something else, first my finger, then my whole hand swelled and was first very painful and later just puffy and very itchy. Takes a few days apparently….

Time to be off - I am sure bright sunshine and salt-water swimming will cure all. We're heading out, we haven't quite decided where; the aim is to go north if possible. We only have a month, so need to make the most of it.
Postscript: We couldn't make north due to the wind, so headed west, as you do. We are now on Amorgos, about 50nm from my last sentence - a real favourite on the Cycladic fringes. We'll start to work our way north from here after our re-introduction to goats, boats, donkeys, Greek mayhem and the modern cheek by jowl with the traditional.