Tuesday, 2nd July 2013 The Bridge

Khalkis Bridge is a sliding bridge that spans the 40m gap between the mainland and Evia Island. It only opens at night to let boats through at calm water, sometime between 10pm and 4am. They have a rough timetable, but do not let you know, as they cannot predict accurately when it will be calm. It is not like tides. The current sweeps through at a rate of knots: sometimes southwards, sometimes north. There are swirls and eddies. It is quite unique in its patterns. It has been written about in ancient times - Pliny, Cicero, Livy etc all mention it. There is a rumour also that Aristotle was so upset and bemused by his inability to explain the conundrum of the currents, that he hurled himself into the strait - whether just to test the waters or a very strange (and unsuccessful) suicide attempt is a moot point!

We arrived in good time and managed to find ourselves a rough bit of quay on the south side. We went ashore for a recce. It seemed all quite small and innocuous, not sure what all the fuss is about. On to the Port Police. They were not interested in passports, stamping our Dekpa (cruising log) or any of the usual formalities. They wanted boat name, registration, length, and insurance details. Pored over the insurance details, which was a bit worrying. We paid out our €18.77 for the transit and received our instructions:
"Myrica, you will be on your boat from 21.30. You will listen on VHF Channel 12 all the time. We will call you when the bridge is to open. It may be anytime from 2200 to 0400. You must answer us so we know you understand, otherwise you do not transit. Prepare your boat but do not go. We will call you again when you may go. Keep a safe distance from other boats. Keep a good speed. Be vigilant and careful."

Well it worked pretty much like that. We had heard horror stories of a mad scrum going through at 2am, peering into the dark and trying to avoid the dozens of little fishing boats that surf the currents for the bigger fish that lurk in them. We were lucky. We were first called at 10pm (very civilised). We "prepared our boat" as instructed (but disobeyed by coming off the quay and hovering in the channel). They called boats one by one, each with the same instructions. Then instead of calling us each individually again as promised, an "all sailing boats" message went out that those transiting South to North should go first and go now. We led the pack, our 3 Italian friendly boats behind us, swirled through the gap missing the little fishing boats, and reached still water about 50m beyond the bridge. And found a good spot on the North Quay to park the boat opposite the tavernas, cafes and music that carried on until past 2am. As did the little fishing boats with their bobbing lights. For all those transiting southwards and northwards, the bridge was only open for about 15 minutes - to minimise disruption to traffic of course. But they say it is calm for only a short time. We only had 2 knots against us, so negligible.

Easier than expected, glad to have that under the belt. Good fun too. And a milestone reached. We will slowly meander up the rest of the island, towards the Gulf of Volos (where Sophie and Al join us) and to the Northern Sporades.