Wednesday, 25th September, Chios and the Mastichoria
Strong winds were forecast for last weekend, so we came to a "marina" 1 mile to the north of Chios Town and main port. As with so many in Greece, the "marina" is an unfinished project - breakwaters and quays are in place with rings or bollards to tie up to, but no services like water put in - and no charges, nor anyone in charge. But it is sheltered, with other yachts doing the same as us - a few Greek boats, 2 Swedish, 1 Aussie and another British boat.

Although an ancient Homeric island with a long history of maritime trade (being on the shipping route of Thessaloniki to Constantinople, Smyrna, Crete, Rhodes & Cyprus) it is its more recent tragic history that impacts everywhere. The people of Chios were among the first to rebel against the Ottomans in 1822 at the start of the Greek War of Independence. Their revolt failed and the Turks' revenge was awful - over a period of 5 years they systematically massacred and enslaved men, women and children, wiping out whole villages. The Chios Massacres were so horrific they were written about (eg by Victor Hugo) and depicted by western painters like Delacroix.

Our first day, we cycled into Chios Town and explored the port and the old town. Much of the architecture is uninteresting as so much was destroyed in the 1881 earthquake. But the Citadel (or parts of it) is still standing and there is preservation work going on. Some of the most interesting parts of the citadel (apart from the rampart wall and castle) were the Turkish Baths. Men and women came on separate days. The first room was for drinking coffee and talking (no different from now then). One moved through to bathing areas and steam rooms. Some remains of mosaic tiles, red marble and wall frescoes give an indication of how colourful and decorated it must have been. There were even two toilets - of the "hole-in-the-ground" variety with stone feet rests. Not unlike that of Pefkakia Boatyard!

Change of plan for the rest of the stay. Instead of taking the ferry across to Çesme in Turkey, we decided to hire a car and explore the island instead. We had already seem some of the mountainous north, having stopped at Kardhamila on the way. So we concentrated on the South - and what a good choice.

Something unique to Chios is the production of mastic. The mastic tree, Pistacia lentiscus, is widespread throughout the Mediterranean, but it is only on Chios that the conditions are right for the resin to solidify naturally. It has protected status. Between June and Sept/Oct, they spread white calcium carbonate underneath the bushes and drill holes in the branches to enable the resin to seep out and fall to the ground. A huge export crop, it has been used for centuries (and still is) as gum, antiseptics, alcoholic drinks (raki), medecines for internal use and cosmetics. The ground beneath the trees is swept up and the resin is handpicked out of the leaf sweepings by women sitting at their open doorways with big baskets. This whole part of the island is called the Mastichoria (Mastic Villages).

One such was the medieval village of Pyrgi - old winding streets, the houses and churches intricately painted in a geometric pattern call sgraffito, by a technique (still used today) called xista or skalistra. Here we watched the ladies at their mastic extracting - R tested some - very sticky!

On to Mesta, another medieval fortified village in 5 sections, undecorated stone, full of labyrinthine lanes and vaulted passages. A most remarkable walled town, still inhabited as it has been for centuries. Our drive took us through stunning scenery of mountains and forest, cliffs and seascapes. We wound up a steep trail to Anavatos, an abandoned stone village perched right on top of a rocky spur. It had a ghostly feel, it was from the top here that women and children were thrown from the walls into the gorge below during the Massacres. The village never recovered.

And finally to Nea Moni - an 11th C monastery surrounded by cypresses. It is now a World Heritage site, one of the most important buildings of the Byzantine era, known for its triple-domed exonarthex, frescoes, red marble pillars & floors, and mosaics. By the exit is a little Chapel. In it are preserved the skulls and some of the leg and arm bones of the massacred monks, women and children who had sought shelter there. Lots of them. A distressing sight in an otherwise beautiful setting. Not forgotten.

A very special panoramic tour of the island with probably the best views and most interesting local villages we have encountered in some time.
Winds have abated, we sailed today to a little cove towards the south of the island, ready to head off on Wednesday a further 40nm south and east to the island of Ikaria. Tales of Icarus - just don't let the wax melt.