Minoan Crete and Wild Country
Fri 17th June 2016

We have traversed the length of Crete along the north coast, from west to east. Rethymno is another Venetian port with a great fortress on the headland and a harbour surrounded by cafes and shops. We hired yet another car, to drive the Idi Ori mountains and visit Phaestos, a well preserved Minoan site - incredible to think their artwork and building pre-date the classical Greek by a thousand years or so! And so tracked further, via an island called Dhia for some much needed escape from crowds and some swimming, to Agios Nikolaos.

Here we put ourselves into a marina (unheard of for us these days!) with the added luxuries of power and water on tap, laundry and showers on site - all in remarkable working order which can be unusual in Greece.

One reason for the stop here (or one incentive to get us up and going to Crete) was a gathering of Cruising Association members and other expats in Crete for a birthday party BBQ using the marina's barbecue ovens. There were 3 x 65 year olds celebrating, one of whom was the 'Honorary Local Representative' here for the CA. We had an evening of food and drink and conversation with like-minded cruising folk from all over and all walks of life - made for an enjoyable experience as well as gathering a few travelling tips along the way. The marina manager, Despina, was there to ensure all were looked after and the three birthday youngsters had organised food from the local tavern.

We hired yet another car (Crete is a big island with lots to see - we've only touched the surface) and drove to Knossos, to see the famous Minoan palace there. It is a big site, a bit difficult to picture the overall layout. Would it be heretical to say we were a bit disappointed? Only because there had been too much "restoration", or rather not restoration with original materials, but rebuilding and reconstruction, including reproductions of various frescoes and friezes. This was in the day of early archaeology, the thinking is a bit more sensitive these days. It did prompt us however, to go to the archaeological museum in Heraklion, where most of the original frescoes, statues, pottery, jewellery, household artefacts and the like were taken for safekeeping. And these were breath-taking, the skills and craftsmanship and artistry still surviving after 3,500-4,000 years was worth every hot step of the way!

Antiqued-out, we went in search of further mountains, coming across another well preserved, but untainted Minoan site, Gournia, in the process. It was late afternoon and closed, but we got a good birds-eye view. Highlight of the drive was finding the end (or start depending on viewpoint) of the Ha Canyon. This one is not for the faint-hearted or inexperienced - it is a roped climb down the Gorge, scaling waterfalls (in winter & spring) and vertical crevasses. We were happy to gawp. See pics.

We need to start making tracks; Crete is not a place to be stuck once the Meltemi sets in. Last night we said our farewells to Agios Nikolaos and sailed up to anchor overnight under the lea of Spinalonga. This famous island has a magnificent 16th C Fortress - it was also the home of a 20th C Leper Colony made famous by Victoria HI slop's book "The Island". It felt eerie wandering around; I felt I knew the place, or at least the layout, from the book.

We are now in Sitea on the NE coast. Tomorrow we will either go a short-ish distance up and over the top in readiness for crossing the strait to Kasos, or go straight to Kasos, depending on the weather. Then a longer haul to Karpathos or Khalki. Never been to Karpathos, the straits there do have a bit of a boisterous reputation - we shall see.

And our thoughts are with family, especially on Monday, we'll be with you in spirit. Those concerned will understand.