Got up at 01.45am and headed like a zombie to the place where we had to catch the Jeep from. Lucky for me I managed to get 10mins sleep! Got in the Jeep, shoved Crystal in first so she was sat with the driver and his gear stick! I got the window seat, two Israeli's in the back and all our bags in the rear seats! This was welcomed good news as least our luggage wasn't on the roof! We set off and after 5mins we pulled into a dodgy back street...NOT A BLOODY GAIN!!!! Yes again surrounded by Indians!! Not worried at all this time the Israelis do national service...boys 3yrs and girls 2. These two were built like Brick Sh*t Houses! The driver started to take our things out of the back but was prompty stopped by Sharrad who grabbed him and told him "NO NO NO!!!" Apparently a Mr MyAgii lookalike was moving up to Leh for the season and had tonnes of stuff to move-it looked like some kind of cooking equipment! After 50mins of shouting things got pretty heated and none of us were backing down... however the Indians finally crumbled when things got a little fiesty thus MyAgii's crap went on the roof and he sat in the back with the bags on top of him!!! We finally set off at just gone 03.00am cramped as hell with a sore bum in the front. At 05.30am it started to get light and to see the sun rising over the snow capped mountains was just breathtaking! Had regular stops for passport checks as we were passing through Kashmir, decided to only eat small potatoe parathas(pancakes) as I didn't want to have to go to the toilet (hole in ground...if your lucky!!!) on the way up! The roads on the way up were right on the edge of the mountains with no protection to stop vehicles fall, it was a good job our driver took great care and drove round them as fast and volatile as he could. As big as the Israeli's were this guy scared them! Finally after 19hrs in the jeep and many nailbiting experiences later we arrived in Leh-apparently its beautiful but right now it was pitch black so it could be Sierra - Leone for all i know! Met by many Ars*holes wanting to get us a hotel- driving in those conditions for that amount of time prepared you for these freaks. A few stern words of advice and they soon left me alone! Ending up going to the Oriental guest house which was very nice and clean but expensive for me as a traveller at 450rps per night (nearly a fiver!). In the morning was getting up to find a cheaper one but for tonight I wanted to sleep comfortably!!