Leon has been a fantastic little aire, so peaceful amidst all of the trees.

We lie in until quite late, use the service point and then set off on the route we planned last evening. The first few miles are more sand pines and open spaces but further along the trees change to deciduous varieties. This whole area is summed up in three words; flat, sandy, forest.

Gradually the flat roads begin to have a few small hills. Cycling is obviously a major pastime here but as we approach Capbreton there are signs for kayaking and other beach activities. We stop in a lay-by for lunch before joining the toll road that will take us outside of Bayonne and Biarritz. The toll road is not too busy and we make good progress. In places roadworks on the edge of the carriageway show how sandy all of the land here is.

We leave the motorway into Saint Jean de Luz and drive through the town. Parts of it are very steep and roundabouts sit on steep hillsides making for some slow wobbly turns. Can't imagine the Bullitt car chase would have been so exciting if Steve McQueen had had to hustle his Mustang around such obstacles in San Francisco!

From Saint Jean de Luz we are on much narrower roads which start to snake and rise through lush countryside. Buildings become a very alpine in style with steeply pitched roofs and large verandas and nearly all are painted white with blood red woodwork.

The road becomes ever steeper with regular sharp curves leading us to the town of Ascain go where we stop briefly to look at the town centre.

Just the other side of town we come across the Rhune railway, a small rack and pinion railway that climbs to the summit of the Rhune mountain.

Cars are parked all along the roadside and in every parking space showing how popular the railway is. We continue climbing into the Pyrenees on roads used in the Tour de France the remaining few miles to the town of Sare where we plan to stop for the night. But when Ali goes to the pay machine a notice says no parking from 4th to 14th September.

Then a French man who is packing up his camping car comes over and tells us the same.

Apparently another circus or fairground is moving in for that period.

We reprogram the sat nav and drive 6 miles to St Pee Sur Nivelle. the camperstop is much more attractive and far bigger, if only a couple of euros more expensive. Once again we find ourselves beside a lake with a small stream running in front of the vans.

Beside us a couple from Brittany are having trouble getting TV. The dish rotates, stops and emits a string of Morse-code like beeps but no picture. Eventually Monsieur lets out a chuckle and a 'mon dieu' followed by a 'voila!' Best guess is that the aerial lead had become detached. Soon they are nibbling snacks as they sit gazing at 'Grand Frere' or whatever.

By nightfall more than 30 vans have arrived.