Thick frost covers the skylights when we wake and outside it is zero Celcius but once the sun rises the white grass returns to green and the temperature rises steadily. We set a route based on one of the articles in MMM and set off in bright sunshine.
We’ve never toured the Perche region before and we find it very attractive. It is quite hilly in places and heavily wooded, with some areas of open farmland.
Some of the farms are equestrian with paddocks and arenas. We see some long legged horses that could be racing or showjumping animals but haven’t seen any of the sturdy Percheron draught horses named after the area.
As we drive through various villages we notice a lot of houses have coloured brickwork features around windows, doors and corner walls. We see some with ornate brick formations of panels, ridges and geometric decoration.
At Remalard we stopped by the Tourism Office fo Ali to pick up some info before going through Moutiers-au-Perche where we bought some bread then onto La Ferte-Vidame. We pass its huge ruins, the18th C palace of Jean Joseph Laborde a banker in the time of Louis XV + XVI.
After a lunch stop near the palace we drive on a long arrow straight road with the town of the Abbey of St Nicolas at Verneuil-sur-Avra sitting like a focal point on the horizon.
Another point today: in every town and village we drive through flags are at half mast in honour of the Carcassonne policeman who sacrificed himself to save hostages in the recent terrorist murders there.
From here it’s cross country, avoiding main roads where possible to Rugles where there is an aire noted for its attractiveness, but when we arrive there are quite a few vans in and the grey skies and starting rain diminish its scenc appeal.
We look in the Passion directory and find Juignettes 5 miles up the road. The rain is heavy and wind strengthening as we head down the single track road and through the gates of an enormous estate. As we pass large paddocks edged with maroon ranch fencing we are confronted by a large house and windmill. Daffodills are scattered among the carefully tended trees and there is a stone well with tiled roof and a timber and tiled lych gate.
A man on a mower races over and points where we are to park then races back to his grasscutting.
By now the wind is really gusty and the rain lashing down but 20 minutes later it eases and Ali goes across to the house. This France Passion deals in honey, preserves and apple produce and our purchases are jars of rhubarb jam and honey.
As we said the other day, how variable France Passions can be. The last one new to the scheme and not yet organised; this one in beautiful surroundings,friendly welcome and goods to sell. Just like Forrest Gump’s box of chocolates, you never know what you’ll get.
And that’s just how we like it!