Vans start leaving from fairly early and the temperature rises quickly as soon as the sun is up.
We need to do some laundry today so search the satnav for any large supermarket en route. Monbron fits the bill 17 miles away and Ali does some shopping while the dobie is sploshing around. An hour later we’re on our way through rural counyryside and hilly woodland.
Apart from a fuel stop in Riberac it’s a straightforward journey towards Bergerac. Last time we came to Bergerac the vines were autumnal yellow and dying back but today they are rich green and heavy with fruit.
From the Bergerac ring road a ten minute drive through vineyards and past the famous chateau brings us to the village of Monbazillac. As we approach the Passion we had programmed, we notice its pitches are quite sloping so we decide to go a few miles on to the one we stayed at last time. On the way we pass Domaine du La Lande, like the look of it so pull in there instead.
The owner comes out to greet us and shows us where to park, between little hedges of vines looking over some of the 12 hectares of vines here. Tasting, he tells us, will be 18:00.
Tasting is held in an air conditioned room with us and the other guests seated around barrels. Monsieur Fabrice Camus [age indeterminate] animatedly explains he is the third generation working this land and his grandson is already learning about wine production, making the fifth generation. Every year they supply wine to the Chateau de Monbazillac just up the road.
Tasting glasses are laid out, measures poured, and an explanation of the wine begins. We can’t understand all of it but a lot is easy to get the gist of. Starting with a red merlot then a white sauvignon, we move through a sparkling rose to the sweeter aperitif and dessert wines for which the Monbazillac region is revered.
The 9th and 10th wines are described as special, served from 50cl bottles that cost €25 and upwards. These are wines which are produced from grapes which have suffered the ‘noble rot’. The region’s microclimate produces a lot of mist which encourages fungus to affect the grapes. We are shown pictures of grapes oozing juices on the vine, raising sugar levels and giving Monbazillac wines their distinct flavours. Tasting exclusive, traditional wines like these is more about the experience and knowledge, than personal taste. Like a fine malt whisky or a classical sherry or port, unless you’ve tasted it under the guidance of experts, you cannot know what is being described.
Over an hour later we all file out into the slightly cooler evening, purchases in hand, included among ours, a bottle of the white sauvignon whose tasting notes suggested to be served with fish and seafood.
Back at the van we sit out watching a red fireball sunset over the vineyard as we enjoy our evening meal. Ali has cooked fresh tuna and made salad nicoise and Monbazillac white, consumed where it grew, is the perfect accompianment.