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Quite a cold morning at 7C but the sheep in the adjacent field and the cuckoo are making their presence known loudly. By the time we have chosen our destination it's warm and sunny.
We follow undulating roads to Questembert and onto Surzun where we follow the MoHo signs through the town to a service point hidden away in a little woodland. On the other side of town we refuel then head towards Sarzeau and, after a bit of confusion, down the lane into the France Passion, Ferme Tome de Rhuys where two motorhomes are already settled. We get something like levelled up in the sloping field then Ali wanders up to the shop to check in. She discovers there has been a brasserie added since the France Passion details were published so we decide to treat ourselves to lunch. The menu is quite short but appetising, then the waitress mentions Dish Of The Day which is salt pork and potatoes cooked in apple and cidre. We both choose that and order cidre to go with it. A huge earthenware saucepan arrives and is placed in front of Ali. We assume plates will be next to dish it out but no, Nick receives a steaming pan of his own. We made our way through the tender salty ham hock, earthy boiled potatoes and sweet apple sauce, periodically slurping cold rustic cidre, in bright sunshine looking over woods and fields. Dish of the day does not disappoint. Across from the terrace are some animal pens with about twenty calves only a week or so old.
We chat a bit with an English couple who have arrived and they also love the surprise and opportunities of France Passion. Their last one was a vegetable farmer, but by the time they arrived he'd sold his day's stock. Next they knew, farmer's wife had baked them a cake.
From the farm it's a 10 minute walk to Chateau de Suscinio. We've been before, last time November 2016 when it was chilly but lovely in autumn colours. Today the sun brings out the detail of the stonework, restored during 1980/90s. Also today it is possible to visit inside. Ali goes down some steps to the ticket office and is told there are no wheelchair concessions so we assume plenty of it will be accessible, but once in the courtyard it is clear that al Nick will see is the outer walls of the inner buildings and a few notices. Feeling cheated out of €9-60 he sits in the shade while Ali goes inside. Spiral staircases lead from section to section and in some halls laser animations are projected onto the walls portraying castle life and, to her surprise, the legend of Arthur and Excalibur.
On the way out we mention the lack of access to another member of staff who say we should not have been charged for Nick and she refunds the fee.
Leaving the chateau we head towards the beach. On the way a convoy of classic cars passes by, turns around and passes a second time.
The road to the beach passes a wildlife reserve on the salines or salt marshes. Scores of birds generate a cacophony of sound, making it hard to pick out individual types. We sit at the edge of the beach for a while enjoying the fresh sea breeze then make our way back to the field.
It's very warm but shady under the trees, but being a working cattle farm there's a strong whiff of maneer m'dear.
We thought dish of the day was lunchtime but when another van arrives it's pantomime time. From the sleek, Paris registered van steps a woman in designer dress and heeled shoes, with a cat on a lead. Now we have a theory that French vans have their satelite dishes connected to the handbrake, no sooner have they stopped than the dish is up scanning to find the essential TV. This one is no different. Monsieur stands back as the dish is spinning merrily on the roof, round and round and up and down enough to stop Chubby Checker singing the Twist.
Finally it gives up and fold flat so he moves the van a few metre across the field and stands back to watch again, like he did last summer, and this time the tension is enough to make him remove his shirt. Again it spins itself dizzy and gives up. Madame is obviously not prepared to miss tonight's 'Le Facteur X' or 'Rue de Coronation' so they pack up and drive off, leaving the rest of us to countryside and birdsong and a selection of cheeses and terrines from the shop for our supper.
And a glass or two of Merlot to toast today's special couple, the royal newlyweds Prince Harry and Meghan Markle, now to be Duke and Duchess of Sussex.
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