No rest for the wicked! It's still half dark when the first vans start moving off just after 07:00. Where do they go?

On the edge of the car park is a landing gantry for a zip line that runs right across the lake. Young lads fly through the air suspended horizontally in a harness like a hang-glider, swinging to an abrupt stop on the arrester wire. One lad is unshackled by the supervisor and asked how it went. He wryly puts hand to heart and shakes his leg as if trying to empty his trousers.

Leaving St Pee sur Nivelle we head south to the French town of Dancharia but suddenly, as we exit a roundabout, road markings and signage changes style and we are in the Spanish half of Dantxarinea. A few hundred metres into Spain we turn into the Repsol garage we have come to, to get LPG. Minutes later we pass the deserted border control post and return to France, driving to Ainhoa for a short stop.

Ainhoa, we have read, is a typical Basque town. Founded as a 12th century pilgrims' rest, [guess what's next?] yes, 'on the road to Santiago de Compostella' [where wasn't?] most of it was built in the 17/18th centuries. Set on a ridge, its narrow, single main street is flanked by red-timbered and colombage buildings, many with their date embossed on the lintels. Pink and red flowers hang in its little square and it remains attractive despite being a bit touristy.

The D20 continues through the Col de Pinodieta, another twisty-turny up and down road still bearing slogans and rider names from the Tour de France, and when we enter the town of Espelette, famous for its peppers, the road is covered with painted red peppers and chillies.

From Cambo les Bains, famous for chocolate production, we follow the wider D19. It is a stunningly beautiful drive. We are surprised how lush the scenery is for a mountain range, very few pines but masses of oak woods and hedged grazing. Houses and gardens are arranged on vertiginous hillsides and every now and then the distant high peaks rise as blue shadows above the green escarpments. Some of the route runs alongside the River Nive, bubbling water flowing over boulders, little rocky islands in the middle and young bushes and trees along the edge. Almost together, we say it reminds us of the Olden valley in Norway, and since we had considered a trip to Norway this year but didn't make it, this more than compensates.

At Bidarray we stop by the river and railway line to enjoy the scene. Ali walks over the road bridge from where she sees the old stone bridge, Pont Noblia.

The last few miles we climb hard away from the river, through Osses, another red and white town laden with roses and geraniums, then through Irissarry with a petanque tournament in full flow in the centre.

We climb the single track road up to Ferme Etchemendigaraya, near Suhescun. Although listed in France Passion, the owner tells us he now only does 'camping a la ferme' at €8 per night. Well, we've paid something nearly everywhere in this area, €9.60 last night for what was just a car park, admittedly a very attractive one. But here we are parked next to a huge oak, with panoramic views of the valley and hills. The green grass of the rolling dales is dotted with clumps of woodland and farm buildings. Below us, sheep and goats graze, their bleating and bells the only sounds above the wind whispering in the trees. In the distance a church bell chimes half-hourly. €8? Bargain! Including a guided tour of the farm, which Ali joins in.

As a bonus tonight, there is a set menu Basque supper, all farm's own produce, at 20:00, bring your own wine.

Thunder is rolling around the darkening sky and light rain falls as we go towards the restaurant. Then, apparently from nowhere, the sun flares through above the jagged horizon, bright orange and yellow, squeezing through the inky grey heavens. It's a stunning scene there for a moment then gone again.

Fourteen campers are seated on one long table waiting to be fed. One lady has brought a plate of appetisers, bread with fish paste. Then the pinxos is served, little rounds of toast with fried brie and chorizo, others with grilled ham and cheese. The main course is a rich and tender mutton and white bean cassoulet with garlic and herbs. That is followed by slices of hard squeaky parmesan style cheese, yoghurt and coffee. All delicious.

Thunder is still rumbling around as we return to the van for a nightcap, before turning in.

One week ago Nick's bad back was of enough concern to think about turning for home. After a day like today, how wrong that would have been.