Dawn takes ages up here among the peaks. From the first sign of a lightening sky to sun up is nearly two hours. The pods of the observatory up on the Pic de Midi de Bigorres behind us shine in the sun.

We need fuel so have to go back to Bagneres sur Bigorre, passing through Campan and taking a much closer look at the puppets as we go. In Bagneres there are still diversions all around town and when we get to the supermarket the fuel station is closed while a tanker makes its delivery. We decide to wait instead of face diversions to the other supermarket. Twenty minutes later the garage opens and we join the queue for juice.

Then we cannot get out onto the road we want, a roundabout is half closed and being tamacced and the hi-vis-vest marshalls are not coordinating their arm waving. We end up heading north, instead of east. But at least we see some fields of the famous Tarbes beans and follow a tractor towing a load of them. Our pretty ride has taken 20 miles but we're only 3 miles closer to our destination.

We stop in a pretty wooded layby for lunch and decide, because of the delays, not to do the full distance planned. Drizzle and rain comes for much of the remaining drive through lots of towns and villages. At St Gaudens we cross an old bridge with a stone arch like an old town gate. Some of the roads are nicely straight along typical French avenues of plane trees, and although we are now back in the lower rolling hills, the jagged high peaks are still visible on the horizon.

At La Bastide de Serou we turn off up a steep single track road to the France Passion. There is no one around apart from a friendly golden dog, so we park by the markers and watch the mist roll over the hilltops. Apart from cow bells and the odd birdsong there isn't a sound.

Later a man travelling alone from Munich arrives. He has been golfing at the nearby course. When he starts cooking the smell of his sausage means he is now the dog's new best friend.