Profile
Blog
Photos
Videos
After breakfast we plan a route and set off for Fontevraud L'Abbaye, passing some vineyards along the way. The aire is a bit tricky to find but once parked we are soon up in the main square enjoying a coffee in the sunshine, before crossing the road to visit the abbaye.
We weren't quite sure what to expect there, but as we wander around we become more and more impressed at each part.
In contrast to the fine white stone and classic slate of most of the complex, one building stands out. The romanesque kitchen is a cylindrical tower with a conical, hedgehog pattern roof sprouting tall chimneys with slotted outlets and witches hat tops like an arabic spire.
The kitchen garden is full of varieties of tomatoes, aubergines and courgettes plus herbs. Bees frolic in the fine spray of a fountain and drink from the damp edges.
The crypt, as dark as a pothole, was used to store wine, although the quantities consumed [15000 bottles over 6 months] in the name of prayer were quite staggering.
The refectory is an enormous space, like an empty church with vaulted ceilings. In its lifetime nuns, monks, women of aristocracy, repentant prostitutes and prisoners all dined here.
The cloisters, being of white stone, are beautifully light. Off one side is the church with beautiful vaulted stone ceilings, detailed carvings and remnants of painted panels. Pride of place goes to the painted effigies of Henry II, Eleanor of Aquitaine, Richard the Lionheart and Isabella of Angouleme. Off another side of the cloisters is the Chapter House decorated with frescoes of Christ, from washing of feet, betrayal, crucifiction and resurrection, 10 or 12 panels in all with artwork that leaves us awestruck.
The abbaye was founded in the 12th century by Robert d'Arbrissel. From 1804 -1963 it was a prison and some members of the French Resistance were imprisoned and shot here.
After the prison was closed the French government paid for the restoration of the abbaye.
We finish our visit, have a salad lunch at the hotel then set off for a France Passion.
The route retraces part of our journey yesterday back through Chinon, but this time with head on views of the famous chateau.
Turning off through vineyards we pass the little town of Cravant les Coteaux and arrive at Domaine de Bel Air. We park on a terrace among a few trees looking out over the vineyard, where pickers are still at work.
At 18:00 we go for tasting. The owner lines up four reds and two whites and pours generous measures of each in turn. He shares the tasting and explains his wines to us, and he is pleased when we tell him it is Chris and Paul's first time at a Passion. After tasting each wine we make our selections and pay. Then, as we go through the door, he passes Paul another bottle, the red we all preferred, and says it is a present for dinner tonight.
It's a beautiful evening, 23C and the sun beginning to fall behind the trees, as we sit out with a table of picky bits, ham, cheese, salads, pate and olives, with our wine.
Paul and Chris say they now understand the pleasure of drinking wine where it was grown.
- comments
Chris Everything still sounding so idyllic, guys. I think the frescoes in the Chapter House at the Abbaye could have been what the Catholics call the Stations of the Cross, I believe there are usually 14 of them. And we thought "staggering" was a very apt description of the monks drinking 15,000 bottles of wine !!!!!!!