Sunrise at Tranquility Base. There isn't a sound around us and we can't help but take it easy, until, almost reluctantly, we leave around 11:15

We skirt around Pont l'Abbe rather than through the centre and take the D2 towards the coast. In Ploneour-Lanvern there is a near miss when Nick has to brake hard as a car comes out of a T junction without looking or stopping, sweeping left and nearly getting our wing in his rear door.

At Pouldreuzic we stop for bread, a large hunk cut from a monster loaf that was cooked in a wood-fired oven at 4:00 am. Thick crusty edges with a centre like sponge, we eat it with a tuna salad at Penhors, and decide it would have been better and more enjoyable with French onion soup.

The view at Penhors is superb; the huge bay curves around the Baie de Audierne throwing up huge rolling surf. There must be 50 surfers in the water, sometimes 3 or 4 riding the same crest. Directly in front of us is a breakwater protecting a small harbour, but it is full tide and the waves throw white spray, and occasionally whole waterfalls, high over the wall. A couple of teenage boys dive in behind the wall and cling to mooring rings as the water cascades over them.

We continue on the minor coast road to Plozevet, past a granite menhir [standing stone] and a couple of little lakes among the seaside grass.

Old stone cottages have neat gardens with typical seashore-proof plants like Livingstone daisies, Treemallow and Sea Mayweed, and stunted windblown shrubs. One has a magnificent crimson climbing rose covering its wall.

Back on the main road we go through Audierne, twinned with our hometown Penryn, but we see no mention of the connection. Further along, Primelin does display its twinning with Mabe.

We continue to Pointe du Raz, the most westerly point of mainland France. Once on the approach there is no way to avoid entering the carpark through the ticket barrier, €6.50 for a MoHo, [or €15.00 overnight] but free for 30 minutes. We drive in and out without stopping, there's nothing to see without marching out to the cliffs half a mile away. The road drops to sea level around Baie Des Trepasses then climbs again to Pointe du Van where there is a good sized free aire where we manage to park with sea views.

The breeze brings some cool to the 26C temperature. Unsure if the coast-path terrain will suit the buggy, Ali goes for a recce and finds enough of it is do-able for tomorrow. Her photos show rugged, fissured granite rocks being pounded by white waves from a blue sea. The clifftops are carpeted in pink thrift and golden samphire.

Through the evening the visiting cars dwindle away and the motorhomers settle down for drinks and supper. Crickets chirp in the undergrowth and gradually the sun sinks, as a stripey red ball, into the sea.

We wonder if those with the €15 tickets round the corner know what they're missing.

Thrift on the cliffs, can't beat it.