Neither of us is any rush to move until the sun starts to push the shadows down the mountain sides. It's nearly 11:00 when we finally set off, stopping after only a few hundred yards to enjoy the view of the sparkling river.

We stop again in St Pe de Bigorre, it's a typical, sleepy little French town which has one of everything you need. Ali visits the TO for information on the area, and the boulangerie to get freshly made ham sandwiches. Meanwhile Nick gets to practice some French with a man who wants to know all about the benefits of having a Mercedes-Benz Sprinter for a camping car.

On we go through lush farmland, negotiating the busy outskirts of Lourdes and then following the valley floor, often near the river. In the little town of Trebons is a picnic area and our sandwiches are smelling ready to eat.

By the time lunch is over we've been on the road over two hours and have only covered 19 miles! With another 53 to go and another two hours on country roads we decide to scrap our journey to Mazeres sur Salat and find something nearer. We are diverted slightly by roadworks in Bagneres de Bigorrre where we see Borgoise style villas like we know in Bagnoles de l'Orne, which leads us to think all the 'Bagneres' in this area might be spa towns.

It's a really pretty ride beside the river to Campan, where the town is decorated with puppets. Puppets on benches, puppets in windowsills, puppets on lamp posts, puppets waiting for a bus, all very cute.

Just out of Campan is our France Passion, Les Confitures de Solange. We park in the shadow of the Pic du Midi de Bigorre which is 2976m high. The shop re opens at 15:00 so we sit and wonder at the huge escarpment in front, thick with deciduous trees turning autumnal in colour. Red Kites glide in lazy spirals until they clear the tree line and are outlined against the bare high rock faces.

Later Ali goes to the shop where the owner is stirring a big pan of jam with a huge wooden spoon. From the selections of jams, syrups, cakes and relishes Ali chooses a presentation box of jam. Solage tells her the blackberry and spice jam goes well with cheese and we waste no time in trying it. Not quite a cream tea, but on bread from the shop this morning, and cheese from an earlier Passion we build our afternoon teatime treats. Jam first of course.

We spend the rest of the afternoon revising again what plans we had. Cutting short today's drive and reading leaflets Ali got this morning have us going through more options than a New York egg chef.

There is a cool fresh breeze through the valley making it very pleasant.

Late evening the clueless family from yesterday's stop arrive and ignore everyone again.