15/4 Friday Islares to Hazas-Liendo 15km
Last night I had the best night’s sleep yet. Must have been the fresh air and quiet tent-mates who I didn’t hear returning.

Today I enjoyed a quick breakfast of coffee and pan aux chocolat with Lale and Luigi.

Off I went along the flat roadside until after 3km I realised I was walking without my poles! After a short ponder I hid my pack behind the barrier and headed back. I knew I’d left them outside the tent but they were not there! Did reception have them? No. Fortunately I had the wit to ask if the cleaner might have found them - result!
Back along the road I found my pack safely and that is how 3km became 9km!

Quite a few peregrinos along the long road up the valley, all moving faster than me. At La Magdalena I stopped for an early lunch beside the river - tranquil and pretty.

Immediately after lunch it was a track that felt relentlessly up for 2km and 600ft. Lovely views and a long gentle drop down to my night’s stop at Hazas-Liendo.

No sign of life at Albergue Satarino Candina so I found a cafe for a quick Fanta Limón. A lady passed by and asked if I was a peregrino looking for the Albergue and waved a key at me. I assumed she was the hospitalario and said I would be along in 5 minutes.
It turned out she was Felicidad a Spanish pilgrim who had been given the key by someone in another bar! We made ourselves at home which felt weird without the usual guided tour. Next a Thai guy, Mung, living Switzerland arrived. Cleaned up and clothes washed before the hospitalario showed up to take our 8 euros for the night and promptly leave. Looks very much a DIY place.

Mung speaks no Spanish, Felicidad has some English so conversation will be interesting but I will get to work on my Spanish. Mung has disappeared somewhere but Felicidad and I agreed to take a look at the only nearby restaurant.
Felicidad thinks the staff are not friendly when she makes enquiries. So next we check out the cheap and cheerful cafe in the plaza where all the locals seem to be drinking. €10 peregrinos menu so we have a decision!

Nina, from Germany arrives. Jaida too from New York State so now we are 5. We all agree to eat at the cafe together. The menu proves to be filling but ordinary but excellent value at €10 including one drink.