Despite our early night we are in no hurry this morning, it’s past 11:00 when we set off for the hour’s drive to today’s point of interest, Les Vallee des Saints near Carnoet. On the way we are detoured around Guerlesquin due to the market. From one junction we can see pens of livesock, mostly horses, and other market stalls, but no surprise, there is nowhere to stop.
At the Vallee des Saintes, a path from the car park leads up steep gravel to the visitor’s centre. There is no entry fee but we get a guide book for €10 and continue the climb to the top of the hill. [What’s this valley bit?]
Just as we glimpse the first statues we hear our names and turn to see Nick’s colleague, Jez with wife Sam and children. They are heading for Roscoff at the end of their holiday, but like us, came to see St Piran.
Patron saint of Cornwall, St Piran is the latest and 100th statue to grace the vallee. Carved in Penryn, he was installed here only two months ago and is on top of the hill, one of the first statues in sight. 4 metres tall, he stand with a peaceful, caring expression, wearing around his shoulders, the millstone on which, legend says, he floated to Cornwall from Ireland.
Mission accomplished, we wander around and among the other statues, all carved from Breton granite in a variety of styles from traditional and representational, to ‘unfinished’ and impressionist. Finishes vary from rough hewn to poilished and detailing includes ropes and shawls, fish, dragons, crosses and swords, and all manner of Celtic symbols. St Azenor holds a snake to suckle her bare breast and another statue has a bishop’s robe carved with insigia and braiding.
Frequent showers and grey skies add to the dramatic effect while occasional bursts of sunshine lend warmth to the stone, especially the few carved from the pink granite of northern Brittany.
We take three hours to see the statues, and could spend longer on a warmer drier day, then drive 50 miles to a beef and veal farm near Andel east of St Brieuc.
It’s sunny when we arrive. Parking is in the yard near the house or in a field, we are happy to stay in the yard surrounded by warm and solid Breton stone buildings with pretty flower beds all around. The farm labrador is a happy and laid back character who sits beside our door as Ali is preparing supper.