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Happiness Is The Road
After brekky and another 'frogs in the bogs' ablutions trip we hit the road. We trundled our way back down the dirt road to the main highway and then drove into the centre of Wyndham, the most northerly place that we will go to in Western Australia. The sky today was a gorgeous expansive blue and the cloud formations were gob smackingly amazing as they usually are in the outback. Wyndham was a rugged little place with a lot of Aboriginal people sitting about staring. We feel really sorry for the Aboriginals as their country has been stolen from them and raped by white man. They seem to be disillusioned and broken as a people now. Unable to live in their beautifully traditional and spiritual way they are left as a second rate citizens ostracised by the majority of Australians and it appears with nothing much to fill their days. It is very sad. We stopped a short while after Wyndham at The Grotto, a spectacular gorge. From here we headed down through The Kimberley, an immense landscape that encompasses, gorges,waterfalls and cave systems. It looked wild and wonderful. The Kimberley region covers an area three times the size of England with a population of only 40,000. That means that there are fewer people per kilometre here than almost any other place on the planet. We were unable to get off the main highway and properly explore the Kimberley as all the really spectacular sights are on four wheel drive only tracks, including the awesome Bungle Bungles in the Purnululu National Park. We have decided that we are going to make another trip to Australia in the future to do the Gibb River Road, which traverses The Kimberley, in a four wheel drive campervan. Our destination today was Halls Creek. We covered about 400 kilometres from Wyndham to get there. We felt a sense of foreboding when we came to the edge of Halls Creek. It didn't look like a particularly great place. It was very scruffy with lots of tatty houses and heaps of litter. Also there were loads of Aboriginal people walking aimlessly across the roads and looking menacing. There was only one caravan park in Halls Creek and we had no option but to stay there as we had driven a long way and the next town was 300 kilometres away. The lady on the reception was very nice and friendly but the caravan park was scary. We were warned to guard our possessions! There were quite a few rough looking permanent residents that just stared. Their brains had probably been frozen by the sheer desolation and desperation of the place. We found the best spot of a bad bunch and holed up in the camper with the doors locked for the night with only quick dashes out to do our ablutions. The following are comments taken from Trip Advisor which nicely sum up the place "Very noisy at night from locals woop wooping in the distance. Possibly the reason for the barbed wire fence all around", "The permanent residents on the site didn't seem very keen to have travellers passing through" and "Do not stay - It is not safe". It was a long night!
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