Sorry for intermittent blog posts but wifi has been impossible in the rural areas. We had a rest day on Thursday in Pontremoli which is a lovely historic town. Although we are now in Tuscany, the locals stress that we are in Lunigiana district. We've tried their local speciality of testarola which is like a savoury pancake and it's mushroom season here and they make a fab sauce with fried mushrooms tomatoes and red wine. The weather and walking have been fine and no more mule tracks today but I think there might be more screaming tomorrow as there a long 10 mile section described as "challenging". I'm cooking tonight in our self catering apartment. Tortellini with ricotta and herbs, well that's what I think it says on the packet. Pic is of Roger with a bishop, not an Abbott .