This is where the screaming begins, as Roger warns me. We are leaving the fields where I've been curious about the most popular crop. A small pea like plant with blue flowers. We discover it's the only food for the cows whose milk is used for Parmesan cheese. They are kept inside so we only hear the occasional moo as we pass by. So it's up and up on "ancient mule tracks". Fine if you have 4 legs . Hard work with only 2 and a rucksack. And it starts to rain. We stay in a very simple hostel and a lovely fellow walker Lucia makes us pasta and salad. We meet Craig an American who has walked all the way from Canterbury. Respect