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Adventures of a Global Wanderer
After pulling in at Nagasaki Station I first went to the tourist info desk to get my bearing and get a tram pass. The pass was 500Y ($6.25), cheaper than the Hiroshima one which was 600Y and I'd be getting more use out of the Nagasaki one. They also told me the Peace Park was a 15 min tram ride north. I thought you could walk from the station but you would have to take some form of transit to get there. As in other cities there were 1930s style trams. There were several koreans on the tram looking at their hangul maps so I got chatting with a couple as we got off and they told me they were from Seoul. The sites remembering the atomic tragedy are spread out. From the tram stop the first place I went was to the peace park. Here there was a giant statue pointing two ways. The first was up to the sky to signify the bomb. His other hand had his hand facing down in a peace gesture. The park had other donated sculptures from former eastern bloc european communist states. It seemed a bit strange compared to the Hiroshima Peace Park. In Hiroshima an entire small city island which was the site of the bombing had been turned into a peace park. In Nagasaki in contrast this was a built up urban area with the peace monuments scattered between urban neighbourhoods. I had to follow the signs to pass thru some urban neighbourhoods to the bomb epicentre. Here was a small garden beside a large traffic main road. There was a small pillar surrounded by larger circlies to signify where the bomb had dropped. Originally the plan was not Nagasaki but instead Kitakyushu, the town which joins the island of Kyushu to the larger Honshu Island. Because of cloud they went to Nagasaki to bomb the port. Again there was cloud so they bombed a northern neighbourhood which we were in. The side was a former prison and nearby was the largest church in asia at the time. I was very surprised to hear the bomb had destroyed asia's largest church. Its ironical that the "christian westerners" did such a thing. Another church had been rebuilt nearby in the 1950s at the insistence of local residents which I wanted to see but it was the wrong way going thru urban areas again. I had to navigate more urban neighbourhoods to get to the Atomic Museum. Entrance was 200Y ($2.50). At the entrance was an online petition for a nuclear free world. I wanted to sign it but the keyboard only had Japanese options. I asked the lady at the counter and she couldnt change it so I had to sign the paper petition. They should have an english keyboard option as people come from all over the world and don't know Japanese characters. The striking difference with the Hiroshima Museum is that you first enter into a large room where they house many of the remains of the bombed Church. There are many large stone figures and arches from the entranceways. Again it made me quite angry. People often use religion to claim they are morally better than the enemy, yet they have destroyed the largest and one of the most beautiful churches that existed in asia at that time. Other parts of the museum had a pendulum clock that had become frozen when the blast hit, survivors personal effect and household goods. They traced the development of the bomb from Nazi Germany and continued with the global nuclear movement from 1945 to the present day. It was not as busy as the Hiroshima Museum probably because the sites are scattered over a large area between urban neighbourhoods. It may have been more fitting to have them in a large city park and not to have had such urban development here. Would you want to live and buy your groceries on a mass grave? If this is what the locals wanted its not for us to question them. It is an important site to visit in Nagasaki but quite out of the way from the train station and other tourist sites so best to take the tram.
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